西式面包怎么选？酸面团面包、全麦面包与超加工面包的健康真相
Sourdough v white sliced: Which breads should we be eating?
译文简介
大多数超市出售的西式面包因含多种添加剂被归类为“超加工食品”（UPF），长期食用可能对健康不利；传统酸面团面包因长时间发酵更易消化、有助于血糖控制且饱腹感强；全麦面包则因保留整粒谷物成分，富含纤维、维生素和矿物质，有助于降低慢性病风险。建议消费者优先选择成分简单、添加剂少的产品，并关注此类商品是否为真正的全麦面包。
正文翻译
When it comes to bread, supermarkets have a dizzying array of choice. Yet the bread we eat can have a surprising impact on our health.
提到面包，超市里的选择令人眼花缭乱。然而，我们日常食用的面包却可能会对健康产生意想不到的影响。
Like many of us, I started making sourdough during the Covid-19 lockdown in 2020. My colleagues at the BBC published a step-by-step guide, and I – alongside thousands of others – gave it a go. I must confess I didn't start completely from scratch as a friend gifted me some of her starter – the live mixture of wild yeast and bacteria which help bread to rise. After many failed attempts it became not only edible, but delicious. I don't have a very precise method, but it usually turns out OK.
和许多人一样，我在2020年疫情封锁期间开始尝试制作酸面团（sourdough）面包。当时我的同事们发布了一份详细的制作指南，我和成千上万的人一样，决定试一试。坦白说，我并没有完全从零开始——一位朋友送了我一些她的“酵种”（starter），这是一种由野生酵母和细菌组成的活性混合物，能让面团发酵膨胀。经过多次失败后，我的面包终于不仅变得可以入口，甚至非常美味。虽然我没有特别精确的方法，但通常结果还不错。
At first, I carried on making bread because it was tasty, but after learning more about the health concerns around ultra-processed foods (UPFs) – which often contain added salt, sugar, fat, and industrial chemical additives – I felt determined to keep going. Not only did my bread taste better than supermarket offerings, but it was free of those ultra-processed food (UPF) ingredients that scientists warn aren't particularly good for us. Five years on, my starter is still thriving and used regularly.
起初，我继续做面包只是因为它好吃。但后来，当我更多地了解到超加工食品（UPFs）对健康的潜在危害——这类食品通常含有额外添加的盐、糖、脂肪以及工业化学添加剂——我便下定决心坚持下去。我自制的面包不仅比超市卖的更好吃，而且不含那些科学家警告我们应尽量避免的超加工成分。五年过去了，我的酵种依然生机勃勃，并被频繁使用。
（超加工食品：指在已加工食品基础上再次加工的工业食品，通常含有五种以上防腐剂、人工甜味剂等非日常使用的工业成分）
However, not all of us have time to bake our own bread every day. Artisan sourdough can also be extremely expensive. In comparison, supermarket bread is cheap and convenient. But given that there are so many options in the supermarket, it can be difficult to know what's best to eat. So which bread is the healthiest, and what should we look out for when buying a loaf?
然而，并不是每个人每天都有时间自己烤面包。手工酸面团面包价格也往往十分昂贵。相比之下，超市面包便宜又方便。但正因为超市里有如此多的选择，我们反而很难判断哪种面包最健康。那么，到底哪种面包最有益健康？我们在购买面包时又该注意些什么呢？
The Chorleywood method
In the late 1950s, scientists at the Chorleywood factory in the UK developed a method to produce dough much faster than before. They added hard fats, additional yeast and chemicals such as enzymes, oxidants (to strengthen the dough) and emulsifiers (which helps other chemicals combine), then mixed their recipe together at high speed.
乔利伍德法：
20世纪50年代末，英国乔利伍德工厂的科学家们开发出一种比以往快得多的面团制作方法。他们在面团中加入硬脂、额外酵母，以及酶、氧化剂（用于增强面筋结构）和乳化剂（帮助不同成分融合）等化学物质，再以高速搅拌混合。
（传统面包发酵需数小时甚至过夜，而乔利伍德法将整个流程压缩至约3.5小时内完成，极大提升了生产效率。争议：此类面包被归类为超加工食品，含多种非家庭厨房常见成分，食用后消化迅速易导致血糖飙升，饱腹感差。）
This innovative new technique made bread quicker and cheaper to produce using low-protein British wheat. The extra additives such as emulsifiers gave the bread longer-shelf life too, which is why today about 80% of the loaves we eat are still made using the Chorleywood method.
这项创新技术使得使用蛋白质含量较低的英国小麦也能快速、廉价地生产面包。此外，像乳化剂这样的添加剂还能延长面包的保质期。因此，如今我们所吃的面包中，约有80%仍采用乔利伍德法制作。
Many people – including the author – turned to sourdough during the first year of the Covid-19 pandemic (Credit: Melissa Hogenboom)
许多人在疫情期间的第一年转向了酸面团面包（图片来源：Melissa Hogenboom）
Although the Chorleywood process was initially developed as a way to help small bakers compete with bigger industrial bakeries, it backfired. Despite the intentions of the scientists behind it, large industrial bakers adopted the process too, putting smaller bakeries out of business.
尽管乔利伍德工艺最初是为了帮助小型面包店与大型工业化面包厂竞争而开发的，但事与愿违。尽管发明者初衷良好，大型工业面包厂商也迅速采用了这一工艺，反而导致许多小面包店倒闭。
Sourdough
If the Chorleywood method produces quick, spongey loaves, sourdough bread is on the slower end of the bread-baking scale.
酸面团面包：
如果说乔利伍德法能快速做出松软的面包，那么酸面团面包则属于慢工出细活的那一类。
（酸面团面包采用长时间自然发酵，通常具有较低的血糖反应，消化较慢，饱腹感更强。）
To make almost any risen bread (one that uses yeast or bacteria to create bubbles of gas), there are several essential steps involved. First the ingredients are mixed, then kneaded – this helps the gluten to form an elastic dough – followed by the first rise, which is where the dough is left, usually in a warm, humid environment, for the yeast to break down sugars and create pockets of carbon dioxide. After this, the bread will either be baked immediately or worked again to shape it into its final form, such as a baton or a baguette, and allowed to rise again. During this second step of fermentation, the yeast will form smaller bubbles of air, which improves the structure of the final loaf. Then the bread is ready for baking.
要制作任何一种依靠酵母或细菌产生气泡的发酵面包，都包含几个基本步骤：首先将原料混合，然后揉面——这有助于面筋形成弹性面团；接着是第一次发酵，通常在温暖潮湿的环境中静置，让酵母分解糖分并产生二氧化碳气泡。之后，面包要么直接烘烤，要么再次整形（比如做成棍状或法棍），并进行第二次发酵。在第二次发酵过程中，酵母会形成更细小的气泡，从而改善最终成品的质地。随后，面包就可以入炉烘烤了。
When I make bread, the final rise (called proofing) happens in the fridge overnight, which slows down the fermentation process, enhancing the flavour. This also means that the entire process, from activating my starter – where it is mixed with flour and water, and allowed to wake up before it's used – to taking the bread out of the oven, can take as long as 36 hours.
我自己做面包时，最后的发酵（称为“醒发”proofing）是在冰箱里过夜完成的，这样可以减缓发酵速度，提升风味。这意味着从激活酵种（将酵种与面粉和水混合，让它“苏醒”后再使用）到把面包从烤箱取出，整个过程可能长达36小时。
Some studies have found that people feel less hungry after eating sourdough baked goods compared to other breads
In its most basic form, the ingredients of sourdough are flour, salt, and water mixed with a sourdough starter – usually a mixture of bacteria and yeast – which acts as a natural raising agent. Those of us who eat it tend to love the taste, but what's even better are the health benefits.
一些研究发现，相比其他面包，人们在食用酸面团烘焙食品后饥饿感更低。最基本的酸面团面包只包含面粉、盐、水，再加上酸面团酵种——通常是由细菌和酵母组成的天然发酵剂。喜欢它的人往往钟爱其独特风味，但更棒的是它的健康益处。
Before the Chorleywood method was devised in the 1950s, baking bread was a much more laborious process (Credit: Getty Images)
在1950年代乔利伍德法出现之前，制作面包是一个费时费力的过程（图片来源：Getty Images）
Sourdough can be easier to digest than other breads as the slow fermentation process breaks down the protein and makes the vitamins and minerals easier for our body to absorb. As sourdough ferments, its natural lactic acid bacteria break down carbohydrates in the flour. This process significantly reduces the amount of hard-to-digest sugars known as fermentable oligosaccharides, disaccharides, monosaccharides and polyols (fodmaps).
酸面团比其他面包更容易消化，因为缓慢的发酵过程会分解蛋白质，并使维生素和矿物质更易被人体吸收。在发酵过程中，酸面团中的天然乳酸菌会分解面粉中的碳水化合物，显著减少一类难以消化的糖分——即可发酵性低聚糖、双糖、单糖和多元醇（FODMAPs）。
At the same time, the fibre and healthy compounds called polyphenols provide important fuel for our gut microbes. Similarly, the slow fermentation process makes it helpful for those who need to manage their blood sugar level. However, commercially available, (usually) yeast-based breads do have some benefits, including being fortified with certain vitamins and minerals.
同时，其中的膳食纤维和被称为多酚（polyphenols）的有益化合物，还能为肠道微生物提供重要“燃料”。同样，这种缓慢发酵过程也有助于需要控制血糖水平的人群。当然，市面上常见的（通常使用商业酵母制作的）面包也有一些优点，比如强化添加了某些维生素和矿物质。
Sourdough has also been found to keep you fuller for longer. Some studies have found that people feel less hungry after eating sourdough baked goods compared to other breads. Others though, didn't find any difference.
此外，酸面团还能让人更长时间保持饱腹感。一些研究发现，人们在食用酸面团烘焙食品后，比吃其他面包时感到更不饿。不过，也有其他研究并未发现明显差异。
评论翻译
很赞 ( 1 )
收藏
Today, many breads found on supermarket shelves baked using the Chorleywood method are defined as UPFs, due to the chemicals and emulsifiers added to them. For example, in some countries, such as the US, processed bread may contain the additive potassium bromate, which helps bread to retain carbon dioxide and leads to larger loaves. However, it is considered a possible carcinogen in humans.
超加工面包？
如今，超市货架上许多采用乔利伍德法制作的面包都被归类为超加工食品（UPFs），因为其中添加了各种化学物质和乳化剂。例如，在美国等一些国家，加工面包可能含有溴酸钾（potassium bromate）这种添加剂，它有助于面包保留二氧化碳，从而做出更大的体积。然而，溴酸钾被认定为人类可能的致癌物。
In the UK about 54% of the calories we consume are in the form of ultra-processed foods, according to a 2020 study. The figure is similar in the US, though estimates vary. It can be hard to identify what a UPF ingredient is, so a rule-of-thumb many academics advise is this: if the food contains five or more ingredients, as well as ingredients you wouldn't have in your own kitchen, it's likely to be UPF.
根据2020年的一项研究，英国人摄入的热量中约有54%来自超加工食品。美国的情况也类似，尽管具体数据略有出入。识别哪些成分属于UPF并不容易，因此许多学者建议一个经验法则：如果一种食品含有五种以上成分，或者包含你在自家厨房里不会用到的成分，那它很可能就是超加工食品。
The extra time it takes to make sourdough means the bread is much more nutritious than industrially produced breads。
制作酸面团所需的时间更长，这也意味着它比工业化生产的面包营养更丰富。
Most bread found in supermarkets today is mass-produced and contains additives that boosts production speed, extends shelf life, enhances flavour and texture, as well as replaces nutrients lost during the production. This means most supermarket loaves are classified as ultra-processed.
如今超市里大多数面包都是大规模生产的，含有各种添加剂，用以加快生产速度、延长保质期、改善口感和质地，甚至补充生产过程中流失的营养。这意味着绝大多数超市面包都被归为超加工食品。
Mass produced bread accounts for about 11% of a typical diet and a diet high in UPFs is lixed to a range of health conditions, though it's worth noting that the way food is categorised as UPF lumps many different food groups together, and researchers urge caution not to vilify all supermarket bread.
大规模生产的面包约占典型饮食的11%，而高UPF饮食与多种健康问题相关。不过值得注意的是，超加工食品的分类方式将许多不同类型的食物混为一谈，研究人员也提醒我们不要一概否定所有超市面包。
One option is to choose bread with as few extra ingredients that you do not recognise as possible. And if you are going for packaged bread, you might want to consider opting for wholegrain instead of white. Nutritionist Jenna Hope told BBC Good food that "different types of breads are associated with different health benefits. For example, wholegrain bread with seeds will be higher in fibre and have healthier fats than white bread."
一个可行的选择是：尽量挑选成分表尽可能简单、且你不认识的成分越少越好的面包。如果你选择包装面包，不妨考虑全麦而非白面包。营养师珍娜·霍普在接受采访时指出：“不同类型的面包具有不同的健康益处。例如，带籽的全麦面包比白面包含有更多纤维和更健康的脂肪。”
Wholegrain bread
Wheat grains are made up of several layers. There's the germ – the embryo of the wheat which is rich in protein – the outer shell, known as the bran, and the starchy endosperm, which acts as a food store for the embryo.
全麦面包：
小麦颗粒由几层结构组成：胚芽——富含蛋白质的小麦胚胎；外层麸皮；以及淀粉质的胚乳，它为胚胎提供养分。
The fibre found in wholegrain bread can also keep you feeling full for longer as we digest it more slowly
In regular bread, the germ and the bran tend to be removed, leaving just the endosperm. In contrast, wholegrain bread uses all parts of the grain – and this is what gives it its range of health benefits, as they contain polyphenols (a group of chemicals with antioxidant properties), essential nutrients like vitamin E, folate and magnesium, as well as fibre, protein and healthy fats. White flour on the other hand, has the germ and bran removed.
普通白面包通常会去除胚芽和麸皮，只保留胚乳。而全麦面包则使用整粒小麦的所有部分——正是这一点赋予了它诸多健康益处，包括富含多酚（具有抗氧化作用的一类化合物）、维生素E、叶酸、镁等必需营养素，以及纤维、蛋白质和健康脂肪。相比之下，白面粉去除了胚芽和麸皮。
Unlike refined grains, wholegrain bread is packed with more fibre, vitamins, and minerals. These benefits mean that swapping from white bread to wholegrain could reduce the risk of heart disease and improve your gut microbiome. Eating more wholegrains is also lixed to a reduced cancer risk.
与精制谷物不同，全麦面包富含更多纤维、维生素和矿物质。这些优势意味着，从白面包换成全麦面包，有助于降低心脏病风险，并改善肠道菌群。多吃全谷物还与降低癌症风险有关。
The Chorleywood method used for many supermarket loaves leads to a uniform but less healthy product (Credit: Getty Images)
超市中广泛使用的乔利伍德法虽然能做出外观统一的面包，但营养价值较低（图片来源：Getty Images）
The fibre found in wholegrain bread can also keep you feeling full for longer as we digest it more slowly, so it can lead to a more gradual increase in blood sugar levels, rather than the spike we often get from white bread, which can make us hungrier sooner. One study found that those who ate three portions of wholegrain per day had a lower BMI and reduced belly fat compared to those who ate refined grains, showing that eating wholegrain food could help individuals maintain a healthier weight.
全麦面包中的纤维还能让我们更长时间保持饱腹感，因为它的消化速度更慢，从而带来更平稳的血糖上升，而不是像白面包那样引起血糖骤升——后者往往让我们更快感到饥饿。一项研究发现，每天摄入三份全谷物的人，其身体质量指数（BMI）和腹部脂肪均低于食用精制谷物的人，表明摄入全谷物有助于维持更健康的体重。
It's worth noting that some supermarket bread marketed as "seeded" is not necessarily made from wholegrain flour, even though it appears brown in colour. Of course, if you find it difficult to give up white bread, you can get wholegrain food in your diet from a range of other foods too, including brown pasta, brown rice, rolled oats, and even popcorn.
需要注意的是，一些超市标榜为“含籽”的面包，未必真的使用全麦面粉，即使它们看起来颜色偏棕。当然，如果你实在难以放弃白面包，也可以通过其他食物摄取全谷物，比如糙米意面、糙米、燕麦片，甚至爆米花。
A healthier white bread
Today white bread is still the most popular form of bread bought by consumers in the UK, despite the fact that it lacks the nutritional value of wholegrain. That could soon change, however. Researchers have created a new wholemeal bread that tastes and looks like white bread.
更健康的白面包？
尽管缺乏全麦面包的营养价值，白面包目前仍是英国消费者购买最多的面包类型。但这种情况或许即将改变。研究人员已开发出一种新型全麦面包，其口感和外观都接近白面包。
To do so, the researchers plan to enrich bread with small amounts of peas, beans, and various cereals, alongside the bran and wheat germ that is typically removed in white bread flour. While the research is in its early stages, Catherine Howarth of Aberystwyth University, one of the researchers involved in making these loaves, stated in 2024 that the process is a "delicate balancing act", as the team tries to match the nutritional value of wholemeal bread but create the taste and consistency of white bread.
为此，研究人员计划在面包中加入少量豌豆、豆类和其他谷物，同时重新加入通常在白面粉加工中被去除的麸皮和小麦胚芽。虽然这项研究尚处早期阶段，但参与该项目的阿伯里斯特威斯大学（Aberystwyth University）研究员凯瑟琳·豪沃斯在2024年表示，这一过程是“一种微妙的平衡”，团队正努力在保留全麦面包营养价值的同时，复刻出白面包的口感和质地。
The team is also incorporating other nutrient-rich grains like teff, sorghum, and millet, as well as seeds such as quinoa. Green peas and chickpeas are also being considered to provide an extra protein boost. "Using other cereals we can enhance the iron, zinc and vitamin levels and most importantly the fibre content, because white bread has very little fibre, which is so important for good health," Howarth told BBC News.
研究团队还在尝试加入其他营养丰富的谷物，如苔麸（teff）、高粱米（sorghum）和粟米（millet），以及藜麦等种子。青豌豆和鹰嘴豆也在考虑之中，以提供额外的蛋白质。“通过使用其他谷物，我们可以提高铁、锌和维生素含量，最重要的是增加膳食纤维——因为白面包的纤维含量极低，而纤维对健康至关重要，”豪沃斯在接受采访时说道。
While my colleague, BBC Science correspondent Pallab Ghosh, tried an early prototype – and found it extremely tasty – it may take another two years before this product is available to buy.
据科学记者帕拉布·戈什试吃早期原型后反馈，这款面包味道极佳。不过，该产品可能还需两年左右才能上市销售。
So what should you choose?
A lot of choice ultimately comes down to personal preference, convenience and cost.
那么，你该选哪种面包？
最终，选择很大程度上取决于个人偏好、便利性和成本。
Not all of us can find the time to make our own sourdough, but commercial options can also be a healthier alternative to white loaves (Credit: Getty Images)
并非所有人都有时间自制酸面团，但市售的某些选项仍可能是比白面包更健康的选择（图片来源：Getty Images）
An expensive sourdough loaf may be out of reach for many, and minimally processed bread is not practical or affordable, yet it's still worth checking the ingredients of the produce you buy. Knowing what to look out for will help you make more conscious choices when it comes to choosing bread.
对许多人来说，昂贵的酸面团面包可能遥不可及，而最少加工的面包也不一定实用或负担得起。尽管如此，仔细查看你所购产品的成分表仍然值得。了解该关注哪些成分，将帮助你在选购面包时做出更有意识的选择。
One loaf that looked fairly healthy to me in my local supermarket had added granulated sugar and preservatives, for instance.
例如，我在本地超市看到一款看似相当健康的面包，成分表中却赫然列着添加的白砂糖和防腐剂。
Some supermarkets do sell sliced packaged sourdough – and the ingredient list is minimal, distinguishing it from UPF versions of sliced bread. And for those worried about shelf life, freezing bread is always an option too.
一些超市确实出售切片包装的酸面团面包——其成分列表非常简洁，明显区别于超加工的切片面包。对于担心保质期的人来说，冷冻面包始终是一个不错的选择。