有哪些菜肴被误认为是正宗中餐,但实际上并非如此?
What food is considered Chinese that actually isn't?
译文简介
世界上没有任何一种菜系像中国菜那样饱受“多样化,菜系泛化”的困扰。在世界各地,许多打着“正宗中国菜”旗号供应的菜肴,有的压根不源自中国,有的则是针对当地人口味改进后的融合菜。
正文翻译
Anne Miller
I think no other cuisine suffers the plague of generalization as the Chinese cuisine. Many dishes are served in the name of Chinese cuisine that is not really of Chinese origin throughout the world. If you are to visit China, there are good chances that your favorite Chinese dishes would not be served anywhere. Authentic Chinese cuisine is in a league of its own. But what has happened over the years is that the recipes are tweaked based on regional preferences and material availability. But they are still served as Chinese food. Also, many people consider all oriental food like Chinese and fail to differentiate between Thai, Mongolian or Japanese cuisine. Anything soupy or with noodles in it has to be Chinese is the prent misconception. Let me share some high profile dishes which are served and savored as Chinese food but are not Chinese:
我认为世界上没有任何一种菜系像中国菜那样饱受“多样化,菜系泛化”的困扰。在世界各地,许多打着“正宗中国菜”旗号供应的菜肴,其实根本并非源自中国。如果你去中国旅行,很有可能你最喜欢的“中国菜”在当地根本找不到。正宗的中国菜自成一派、独具特色。但多年来,这些菜谱根据各地口味偏好和食材可得性不断被调整,却依然被当作“中国菜”来售卖。
General Tso’s chicken
左宗棠鸡

Egg rolls
蛋卷春卷

Moo shu pork
木须肉

Sweet and sour pork
糖醋里脊

Lo mein
捞面

Egg foo yung
芙蓉蛋

Chop suey
炒杂碎

Orange chicken
橙子鸡

Moo goo gai pan
蘑菇鸡片

Crab rangoons
奶油蟹角

Egg drop soup
蛋花汤

Of course Fortune cookies
当然还有幸运饼干
So the next time you order one of these dishes, keep in mind that they are not authentic Chinese food but rather a byproduct of cultural amalgamation. Now that you know the secret, you can check out with the waiter about the origin and contents of the dishes to check their knowledge.
所以,下次当你点这些菜时,请记住:它们并不是地道的中国菜,而是文化融合的产物。既然现在你知道了这个秘密,不妨问问服务员这些菜的来源和配料,看看他们是否了解。
I think no other cuisine suffers the plague of generalization as the Chinese cuisine. Many dishes are served in the name of Chinese cuisine that is not really of Chinese origin throughout the world. If you are to visit China, there are good chances that your favorite Chinese dishes would not be served anywhere. Authentic Chinese cuisine is in a league of its own. But what has happened over the years is that the recipes are tweaked based on regional preferences and material availability. But they are still served as Chinese food. Also, many people consider all oriental food like Chinese and fail to differentiate between Thai, Mongolian or Japanese cuisine. Anything soupy or with noodles in it has to be Chinese is the prent misconception. Let me share some high profile dishes which are served and savored as Chinese food but are not Chinese:
我认为世界上没有任何一种菜系像中国菜那样饱受“多样化,菜系泛化”的困扰。在世界各地,许多打着“正宗中国菜”旗号供应的菜肴,其实根本并非源自中国。如果你去中国旅行,很有可能你最喜欢的“中国菜”在当地根本找不到。正宗的中国菜自成一派、独具特色。但多年来,这些菜谱根据各地口味偏好和食材可得性不断被调整,却依然被当作“中国菜”来售卖。
General Tso’s chicken
左宗棠鸡

Egg rolls
蛋卷春卷

Moo shu pork
木须肉

Sweet and sour pork
糖醋里脊

Lo mein
捞面

Egg foo yung
芙蓉蛋

Chop suey
炒杂碎

Orange chicken
橙子鸡

Moo goo gai pan
蘑菇鸡片

Crab rangoons
奶油蟹角

Egg drop soup
蛋花汤

Of course Fortune cookies
当然还有幸运饼干
So the next time you order one of these dishes, keep in mind that they are not authentic Chinese food but rather a byproduct of cultural amalgamation. Now that you know the secret, you can check out with the waiter about the origin and contents of the dishes to check their knowledge.
所以,下次当你点这些菜时,请记住:它们并不是地道的中国菜,而是文化融合的产物。既然现在你知道了这个秘密,不妨问问服务员这些菜的来源和配料,看看他们是否了解。
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Fortune cookies.
I'm Chinese, and the first time I saw them is from US TV shows.
幸运饼干。我是中国人,第一次见到这种东西是在美国电视剧里。
Yijie Liu
About half of the dishes served in Chinese restaurants outside of China are not typically Chinese, the other half don't taste very authentic either.
海外中餐馆菜单上大约一半的菜在中国并不常见,另一半即使有,味道也远不够地道。
Hot and sour soup. Lovely choice for an appetizer, but those crisps it comes with are in no way Chinese.
Chicken with broccoli. A delicious yet very odd constellation of ingredients.
Tangerine beef. Even weirder, and not all that delicious.
General Tso's Chicken. I bet most of the Chinese population wouldn't even know the connection between general Tso and this dish.
Sweet and sour pork. Always made with ketchup when it's supposed to be vinegar and sugar.
And the aforementioned fortune cookies. Cute but not Chinese.
酸辣汤——作为开胃菜很不错,但配的那些脆片完全不是中国的东西。
西兰花炒鸡——美味但食材组合很奇怪。
陈皮牛肉——更离谱,而且也没那么好吃。
左宗棠鸡——我敢打赌大多数中国人甚至都不知道这位“左将军”和这道菜有什么关系。
糖醋里脊——本该用糖和醋调制,结果在国外总是用番茄酱。
还有前面提到的幸运饼干——挺可爱,但真不是中国食物。
Hasita Krishna
Momos. That wonderful thing sold at all restaurants under the 'Chinese' section in the menu is actually a very Indian creation. Most people are now aware of this and thereby term it Indo-Chinese. But, China had nothing to do with it.
印度饺子(Momos)——这种被几乎所有餐馆归入“中国菜”菜单下的美味,其实是印度本土创造的。现在很多人已经意识到这一点,称之为“印式中餐”。但中国跟它毫无关系。
Tiffany Cheng
Pempek: Pempek is an Indonesian dish from Palembang area, it is a savory fishcake with spicy vinegar and palm sugar sauce. According to the local legend, the name was originated from Ah pek to call the elderly Chinese man that invented and sold the dish.
鱼糕:这是印尼巨港地区的一道菜,是一种搭配辛辣醋和棕榈糖酱的咸味鱼饼。据当地传说,这个名字来源于当地人称呼一位发明并售卖此菜的年长华人“阿伯”。
Hao Hu
I am a Chinese, I think if the problem said it is considered Chinese, why did you think the cooks' reason?
In China, the food isnot considered, because the consumers will choose the delicious Chinese food in the restaruant. Chinese food is form of Chinese dinner culture. If you is an restaruant owner, you cannot consider all consumers, "It is difficult to cater for all tastes" in Chinese culture is 众(zhong)口(kou)难(nan)调(tiao). If you change the taste to consider others, the Chinese overseas students will tell you that you lose the taste it is named 家乡.
Don't consider others mind. there is a Chinese proverb said that 酒香不怕巷子深. When you know the means, you should not care about the simple problem.
我是中国人,我想说,如果问题在于人们认为它是中餐,那你为什么要去揣测厨师的动机呢?
在中国,没人会纠结这个问题,因为顾客自然会选择餐厅里好吃的中餐。中餐本身就是中华饮食文化的一部分。如果你是餐厅老板,不可能迎合所有人的口味——中国有句俗话叫“众口难调”。如果你为了迎合他人而改变味道,海外的中国留学生就会告诉你:“你丢了家乡的味道。”别太在意别人怎么想。中国还有一句谚语:“酒香不怕巷子深。”当你真正理解这句话的含义,就不会再为这种简单的问题烦恼了。
Michael Burden
I understand that chop suey is not a Chinese dish, having originated in the U.S.A. (though it may have been a Chinese chef there who invented it), However it is available in every Chinese restaurant in the U.K.
我知道炒杂碎并非中国菜,它起源于美国(尽管可能是当地一位中国厨师发明的)。但它在英国每家中餐馆都能找到。
Lea Andersen
Fortune cookies are mostly know in China, but do you know that it is not real Chinese food. Rumors that this were invented in China are seen as false. In 1989, it is reportedly imported into Hong Kong and sold as "genuine American fortune cookies". Wonton Food attempted to expand its fortune cookie business into China in 1992, but gave up after it is considered "too American" Read more at: Fortune cookie Also read about: 10 Chinese Dishes That Real Chinese People Don't Eat
幸运饼干在中国几乎无人知晓,但你知道吗?它其实并不是真正的中国食物。有关它起源于中国的传言已被证实是假的。1989年,它曾被引入香港(特区),作为“正宗美式幸运饼干”销售。1992年,“馄饨食品公司”试图将幸运饼干生意拓展到中国大陆,但最终放弃,因为当地人觉得它“太美国了”。更多内容可参见:《幸运饼干》以及《10道中国人根本不吃的“中国菜”》。
Bingqing Cheng
Stir fried rice with tofu.
I took an American to an authentic Chinese restaurant in Hong Kong. He asked for "Stir fried rice with tofu", which is a common practice in American Chinese restaurants. The waiter said there's no such thing.
Later he asked me whether it was an authentic Chinese resturant. I responded, "Yes. At least they don't have stir fried rice with tofu!"
豆腐炒饭。我曾带一位美国人去香港(特区)一家地道的中餐馆。他点了一份“豆腐炒饭”,这在美国中餐馆很常见。服务员却说:“我们没有这道菜。”后来他问我:“这家真的是正宗中餐馆吗?”我回答:“当然是。至少他们不卖豆腐炒饭!”
Caitie Jennings
Chop Suey, it was actually just the random stuff the cook couldn't do anything else with so they just stirfried it together and served it. It's thought that it might kind of have ties to a similar Cantonese dish, but its very remote chance.
炒杂碎其实是厨师把剩下的零碎食材随便炒在一起做成的。有人认为它可能和某道粤菜有点关联,但可能性微乎其微。
Lynda Blandford
I think most Chinese dishes in the U.K. are not really Chinese — when I was in China the food was bland with an awful lot of cabbage and park choi — still it was good for weight loss
我觉得英国大部分所谓“中国菜”都不是真正的中国菜。我在中国时吃的菜口味清淡,大量使用白菜和小白菜——虽然对减肥倒是挺有帮助。
Seamus " Baghwan" Jones
noritake, which is japanese, and most dishes available at anywhere other than WalMart. just look at the bottom of them and it usually says.
Noritake是日本的,至于其他地方(除了沃尔玛)能买到的大多数餐具,只要翻过来看底部通常都会写明产地。
Thomas Ryugo
A lot of dishes like chow mein, fried rice, and sweet & sour pork were Americanized. If nothing else, chow mein and fried rice aren’t normally considered dinner dishes in Hong Kong. For one thing, fried rice is usually made with leftover rice and it would be a tad gauche to serve that to dinner guests. Those are lunch dishes.
But in that vein, spaghetti and pizza were Americanized and very different from Italy. Spaghetti is not a main course in Italy - a side dish before the main course. It’s also not full of sauce - just a spoonful or two. Pizza in Italy often consists of the crust, tomato sauce, spice, and cheese - not multiple toppings of meat and vegetables.
很多菜比如炒面、炒饭和糖醋里脊都被美国化了。顺便提一句,在香港(特区),炒面和炒饭通常不被视为正餐。比如炒饭一般是用剩饭做的,用来招待客人会显得不太体面——它们更多是午餐的选择。
类似的情况也发生在意大利菜上:意大利的意面和披萨也被美国大幅改造。在意面原产地意大利,意面只是主菜前的一道配菜,酱汁也只放一两勺;而意大利披萨通常只有饼底、番茄酱、香料和奶酪,不会堆满各种肉类和蔬菜。
Tushar Kalbhor
The question brought a big smile on my face :D
We had 2 answers from the US of A and the UK.Same goes for India.
这个问题让我忍不住笑了出来 :D我们已经看到了来自美国和英国的回答。类似的情况在印度也存在。
Triple fried rice.
Veg / Chicken Hakka noodles
Veg / Chicken Manchurian
Veg/ Chicken Crispy
Paneer/Chicken chilli
三重炒饭
素食/鸡肉客家米线
满洲什锦蔬菜/满洲鸡
蔬菜/鸡肉干锅
Paneer奶酪/辣炒鸡肉
Brianna LaPoint
Do you mean ceramic or food? Corningware is from NY.
If you mean food wise
Sesame, Orange, sweet and sour, are not authenic Chinese. I suspect Ice cream might be Chinese. general tso’s chicken came from America but the maker of the dish was Chinese …. egg roll and crab rangoon not authentic Chinese either
你是说陶瓷还是食物?如果是陶瓷,康宁锅产自纽约。
如果指食物的话:芝麻鸡、橙子鸡、糖醋类菜肴都不是正宗中餐。我怀疑冰淇淋可能起源于中国。左宗棠鸡虽源自美国,但发明者是华人……蛋卷和奶油蟹角也不是正宗中国菜。
Oliver Harris
Fortune cookies are not really Chinese. They were invented by David Jung, a Chinese born American businessman from Los Angeles, who invented them in the city in the early 20th century. So fortune cookies are really Chinese American, as opposed to being actually from China.
幸运饼干其实并非中国食物。它由出生于中国的美籍商人David Jung在20世纪初的洛杉矶发明。因此,幸运饼干实际上是“美式中餐”的产物,而非真正源自中国。
Another such dish that is not really Chinese is General Tso’s Chicken, my personal favorite Chinese food, if you want to call it that. General Tso’s Chicken, which is also called General Gao’s Chicken in some establishments, was created by either Peng Chang-Quei, a Taiwanese chef who later opened a restaurant in New York City in the 1970’s, or by Shun Lee Palaces, another New York City restaurant, in 1972. Orange chicken, a related but separated dish, was also supposedly invented by and first served at a Panda Express restaurant in Hawaii in 1987.
另一道非正宗中餐是左宗棠鸡——这也是我个人最喜欢的“中餐”(如果你愿意这么称呼的话)。左宗棠鸡在某些餐厅也被称为“高将军鸡”(General Gao’s Chicken),据说是台湾(地区)厨师彭长贵于1970年代在纽约开设餐厅时所创,也有说法认为是纽约“顺利宫”(Shun Lee Palaces)餐厅在1972年首创。而与之相关的橙子鸡,则据称最早于1987年在夏威夷的一家熊猫快餐推出。
So there are quite a few dishes out there that constitute Chinese food in North America that are not really Chinese food. That is because Chinese immigrants to both the United States and Canada sought to adapt their food and change recipes to suit American tastes, creating the uniquely American and Canadian cuisine that we call Chinese food, since cooking in China and taste standards are so different from what we have here that the actual food consumed in China would be repugnant and frankly gross to Western taste buds and palates. I am sure that there are others, and I am probably leaving out some here, but I hope this answers your question as to what dishes are not really Chinese, so that you can have a better understanding of the origin of where foods considered part of a cuisine’s repertoire comes from, and maybe enjoy it better the next time you eat it.
因此,北美所谓的“中餐”中有不少菜肴其实并非真正来自中国。这是因为早期移民到美国和加拿大的华人厨师为了适应西方人口味,对传统菜谱进行了大量调整,从而创造出一种独特的美式/加式“中餐”。毕竟,中国本土的烹饪方式和口味标准与西方差异极大,地道的中国菜对许多西方人来说可能难以接受,甚至觉得“难吃”。当然,这类例子还有很多,我可能有所遗漏,但希望以上内容能帮你更好地理解所谓“中餐”背后的起源,并在下次享用时多一分了解与欣赏。
Ricky
I see the question was asked by my favorite Quoran Timothy Soh. For the sake of answering,
Mandarin: Lao Sheng; Cantonese: Lou Sang (捞生)
我看到这个问题是由我最喜欢的知乎用户 Timothy Soh 提出的。为了回答这个问题,先说一道菜:普通话:捞生;粤语:捞生
As you can see from the above picture, it contains nothing other than crispy snack food that you can possibly get from supermarket except the greenish thing (which is called wakame - a kind of seaweed.) is somewhat healthy presuming there’s no excessive amount of preservatives contained.This food is not eaten until Chinese New Year. On the eve of Chinese New Year, Chinese gather around table and use chopsticks to mix/stir them together. It serves two meanings:
从上图可以看出,这道菜除了超市里能买到的各种酥脆零食外,几乎不含其他东西——只有那团绿色的东西(叫“裙带菜”/wakame,一种海藻)勉强算得上健康,前提是其中没有添加过量防腐剂。这道菜只在农历新年期间食用。除夕夜,华人围坐在桌旁,用筷子将盘中的食材高高搅起、混合在一起。这个动作有两层含义:
One is to gather around family. It brings the meaning of unity.
The other is the word Lao 捞, though it means mix/stir, also dialectically means to develop. Combine it with Sheng 生 which means lively, it brings the meaning of a prosperous year throughout the year. Chinese call it 意头 or luck by name.
Most of the time during CNY there are sashimi-like raw fish slices mixed in to augment the word 生 as the word “raw” means 生. Variations include mixing in raw lobsters and abalones. The point here is 生 and they are delicious.
一是象征家人团聚,寓意团圆和睦;
二是“捞”(Lao)字在方言中除了“搅拌”之外,还有“兴旺发达”的意思,而“生”(Sheng)则代表“生机勃勃”。两者合起来,寓意“风生水起”、全年兴旺。中国人称之为“意头”,也就是靠名字讨个好彩头。在大多数华人社区庆祝春节时,还会加入类似刺身的生鱼片,以强化“生”字的含义(因为“生”也有“生食”之意)。有些变体甚至会加入生龙虾或鲍鱼。关键在于“生”字,而且确实很好吃。
This food is predominantly consumed in Malaysia and Singapore. With the introduction to Hong Kong and Cantonese area in recent years, it has increasingly become a trend in said areas, though not a major one.
The other one that came across my mind while writing the above.
这道菜主要流行于马来西亚和新加坡。近年来虽已传入香港(特区)及广东地区,并逐渐成为一种潮流,但尚未成为主流。写到这里,我又想到另一道:
Kang Shifu Instant Noodles with Beef Stew in Soy Sauce.
Instant noodles were said to be invented by a Japanese citizen of Taiwanese descent. It was not available in mainland China until 80s. Ever since the introduction to Chinese market, it has become the major food Chinese people eat. Not a healthy thing but it provides a great deal of convenience to the people.
康师傅红烧牛肉面方便面据说是出自一位日籍台湾(地区)裔人士之手。中国大陆直到1980年代才开始出现。自进入中国市场以来,它迅速成为中国人的主要食物之一。虽然不太健康,但提供了极大的便利。
Hainan Chicken Rice
海南鸡饭
This is a little controversial. This food actually came out of Chinese province, Hainan, but it hadn’t become a popular food before Chinese migrants to Southeast Asia (mainly Malaysia and Singapore) decades ago.
Is this a Chinese food? Most definitely. Did it originate from China? Yes, but do take note that it gains popularity among foreigners outside China.
One difference that I can recall eating Hainan Chicken Rice in Malaysia and Hainan is chili sauce. Chili sauce is not served by the side of the food in Hainan but is almost available at all eateries serving Chicken Rice in Malaysia and Singapore.
The chili sauce is blended with chili (some bird’s eye chili with other chili variants), garlic, ginger, oil, vinegar, sugar, and salt.
I guess this is what makes it different than its Chinese cousin?!?
这道菜有点争议。它确实源自中国海南省,但在几十年前中国移民前往东南亚(主要是马来西亚和新加坡)之前,并未在中国本土广泛流行。它是中餐吗?毫无疑问是。它起源于中国吗?是的。但请注意,它是在中国以外的地区才真正走红的。我记得在马来西亚吃的海南鸡饭和在海南本地吃到的一个明显区别在于辣椒酱。在海南本地,这道菜通常不配辣椒酱;但在马来西亚和新加坡,几乎所有卖海南鸡饭的小店都会附上辣椒酱。这种辣椒酱由辣椒(常混合小米辣和其他品种)、蒜、姜、油、醋、糖和盐调制而成。也许正是这一点让它与“中国原版”有所不同吧?!
Deguille
Many Chinese restaurants in the Eastern US feature a dish called “curry with onions”. Curry chicken, beef, shrimp — Your choice. It's served in a roux-thickened yellow sauce that is pretty mild by the standards of curry from other countries like India or Thailand. It's also full of sliced onions.
美国东部许多中餐馆都有一道叫“洋葱咖喱”的菜。你可以选择咖喱鸡、咖喱牛肉或咖喱虾。这道菜用一种黄色、质地浓稠的油面酱汁烹制而成,按印度或泰国的标准来看,味道相当温和,而且里面塞满了洋葱片。
This bland, yellow curry is also common in China, but it's almost always regarded as a foreign dish. It's only found in “Western” or “modern” fast food restaurants, as opposed to traditional or mom-and-pop, hole-in-the-wall places. Portions are typically small and expensive. You can make it yourself from boxed roux found in almost every supermarket, where the recipe calls for carrots, potatoes, and green peas — No onions or green peppers as in the US versions, and the meat is usually chicken.
这种清淡的黄色咖喱在中国也很常见,但几乎总是被当作“外国菜”。它只出现在“西式”或“现代”快餐店中,而不会出现在传统家庭式或街边小馆里。分量通常很小,价格却不便宜。你也可以在几乎所有超市买到盒装咖喱自己制作,包装上的食谱一般要求加入胡萝卜、土豆和青豆——不像美国版本那样放洋葱或青椒,肉类也通常是鸡肉。
Chicken curry with rice from Dico's, a Chinese “Western-style” fast food franchise.
百梦多 (Bai Meng Duo), a very common brand of curry roux in China.
上图是中国本土“西式”快餐连锁店德克士的咖喱鸡饭。下图“百梦多”是中国非常常见的咖喱油面酱品牌。
In fact, the origin of “Chinese” curry is a very interesting journey, far-removed from it's native India — It came as an import from Korea or Japan, loosely based on the mild Japanese roux-based curries that were popularized after British sailors brought their taste for it from India to Japan — It seems the British influence contributed to its blandness.
事实上,“中式咖喱”的起源是一段非常有趣的旅程,离它的发源地印度咖喱在口味上已经相去甚远——它其实是通过韩国或日本间接传入中国的,其原型大致是日本那种温和的油面酱咖喱。而日本咖喱本身又是当年英国水手将印度咖喱口味带回日本后逐渐本土化的产物——看来英式影响也导致了它的“寡淡”。
It's interesting that even here in xinjiang, most “curry” is this Japanese-British yellow roux concoction, despite the region bordering India and Pakistan. A few border cities have small restaurants opened by Pakistani entrepreneurs serving the Pakistani businessmen who work here, but they're tiny, minimalist, few in number, and hard to find.
有趣的是,即使在新疆,大多数所谓的“咖喱”也是这种日式-英式的黄色油面酱调制而成,尽管新疆与印度和巴基斯坦接壤。只有少数边境城市有巴基斯坦商人开设的小餐馆,服务在当地工作的巴基斯坦商人,但这些餐馆规模极小、装修简陋、数量稀少,很难找到。