西方餐饮风向大逆转：从“植物基狂热”到“拒绝过度加工”，食客正在抛弃的16道昔日名菜
Chefs say diners are turning away from these 6 once-popular dishes
译文简介
本文深入剖析了当前西方（主要是美国）餐饮界的显著转变，揭示了食客口味与消费习惯的重大调整。文章指出，曾经风靡一时的餐饮潮流正迅速退潮，主要的变革趋势来自食客们对真实口味的追求、健康意识的觉醒、经济通胀的压力以及生活节奏的加快。
正文翻译
Chefs say diners are turning away from these 6 once-popular dishes
厨师们表示，食客们正在远离这6道曾经流行的菜肴
1.The plant-Based Burger
植物基汉堡/纯素汉堡
Few dishes captured the restaurant world's imagination quite like the plant-based burger. For a few years, it felt unstoppable. According to SPINS data analyzed by the Good Food Institute, US retail sales of most plant-based categories were down in 2024 against a backdrop of rising sales for conventional meat.
很少有菜肴能像植物基汉堡那样捕捉到餐饮界的想象力。有那么几年，它似乎势不可挡。根据Good Food Institute分析的SPINS数据，在传统肉类销售增长的背景下，2024年美国大多数植物基类别的零售额均出现下滑。
Sales of plant-based meat and seafood specifically dropped 7% to $1.2 billion in 2025, with unit sales falling an even steeper 11%. The decline wasn't a blip. It was a trend with legs.
具体而言，2025年植物基肉类和海鲜的销售额下降了7%，降至12亿美元，而销量跌幅更大，达到11%。这种下降并非偶然波动，而是一个持续的趋势。
Sales of refrigerated plant-based burgers, which were driving significant growth in the category a few years ago, continued their precipitous decline, dropping 26% year over year. Chefs who once championed these dishes are now rethinking their menu space. As Strong Roots CEO Sam Dennigan put it: "Everyone wants the planet to thrive but not at the cost of taste." Taste remains both the most frequently mentioned reason for repeat consumption of plant-based foods and the top barrier to trial.
几年前曾推动该类别显著增长的冷藏植物基汉堡销量继续急剧下降，同比下跌26%。曾经推崇这些菜肴的厨师们现在正在重新思考它们在菜单上的位置。正如Strong Roots首席执行官Sam Dennigan所说：“每个人都希望地球繁荣，但不愿以牺牲口味为代价。”口味仍然是人们重复消费植物基食品时最常提到的原因，也是尝试这类食品的最大障碍。
The plant-based burger isn't dead, but its dominance as a restaurant centerpiece clearly is.
植物基汉堡并未消亡，但它作为餐厅主打菜的主导地位显然已经结束。
2.Truffle-Everything Dishes
万物皆可松露的菜肴
Truffle oil on fries. Truffle shavings on pasta. Truffle butter on bread.
薯条上淋松露油，意大利面上撒松露片，面包上抹松露黄油。
For a solid decade, restaurants leaned on the word "truffle" the way marketers lean on the word "premium." It worked, for a while. Multiple chefs have now pushed back, with executive chef David Garcia of Eddie and Vinny's stating: "Uni, truffles, caviar - these ingredients used to be special. Now they're often tossed onto dishes just to make them seem more luxurious for Instagram.
在整整十年里，餐厅就像营销人员依赖“高端”一词那样依赖“松露”这个词。这在一段时间内很奏效。但现在多位厨师对此提出了反驳。Eddie and Vinny's的行政主厨David Garcia表示：“海胆、松露、鱼子酱——这些食材曾经很特别。现在它们往往被随意添加到菜肴中，只是为了让它们在Instagram上看起来更奢华。”
Presentation is sometimes prioritized over purpose, and the integrity of a dish can get lost in the hype." Chef Chuck Valla, owner of Valla Table, noted that he doesn't think truffles taste any better than dried shiitake mushrooms, while chef Sarabjit Singh Assi of Sanjh Restaurant and Bar warned that "the obsession with truffle mushrooms, especially when synthetic truffle oil is being used, overpowers dishes, lacks nuance and often masks what could have been great ingredients." When chefs themselves are calling a signature menu move overrated, diners tend to agree and stop ordering it.
“有时形式重于内容，菜肴的完整性可能在炒作中迷失。”Valla Table餐厅老板兼主厨Chuck Valla指出，他认为松露的味道并不比干香菇好多少。而Sanjh Restaurant and Bar的主厨Sarabjit Singh Assi警告说，“对松露蘑菇的痴迷，尤其是当使用合成松露油时，会压倒菜肴本身，缺乏细微差别，往往会掩盖原本可以很出色的食材。”当厨师们自己都说招牌菜被高估时，食客们往往会认同并停止点单。
3. Avocado Toast
牛油果吐司
Avocado toast had one of the most remarkable runs in modern food culture. It went from health-café curiosity to restaurant staple to cultural punchline in under a decade. Now, even chefs are questioning its staying power.
牛油果吐司在现代饮食文化中经历了最非凡的历程之一。在不到十年的时间里，它从健康咖啡馆的新奇事物变成了餐厅的主打菜，进而成为了文化笑柄。现在，就连厨师们也在质疑它的持久销售能力。
Sean Thompson, executive chef at Porter House, summed it up bluntly: "Avocado toast. Look, I have no problem with it, but the fact that it's been considered a trend for years still baffles me." Diners have grown equally weary. Its popularity is also part of a wider trend being challenged, as restaurants and diners seek out alternative toast toppings to the environmentally problematic avocado, with chefs showing that other ingredients needn't be boring.
Porter House的行政主厨Sean Thompson直截了当地总结道：“牛油果吐司。听着，我对此没有意见，但事实证明它多年来一直被视为一种趋势，这让我感到困惑。”食客们也同样感到厌倦。它的受欢迎程度也是受到挑战的更广泛趋势的一部分，因为餐厅和食客都在寻找牛油果（其生产对环境有负面影响）的替代吐司配料，厨师们也在展示其他食材不必枯燥无味。
Diner frustration is growing, with some openly complaining about paying high prices for what amounts to assembling the dish themselves, with no indication on the menu that it was "deconstructed." The concept still lingers, but it's no longer the statement dish it once was.
食客的挫败感日益增长，有些人公开抱怨花高价购买基本上可以自己组装的菜肴，而菜单上却没有迹象表明这是“解构版”。这个概念仍然存在，但它已不再是曾经那种具有声明意义的菜肴。
4.The Long Tasting Menu
超长品尝菜单（通常是指高级餐厅提供的一种多道菜式、耗时较长的用餐形式，旨在全面展示主厨的烹饪技艺和餐厅的精髓）
The multi-course, three-hour tasting menu was once the ultimate expression of fine dining ambition. Chefs designed them as culinary journeys, and certain diners happily cleared an entire evening for the experience. That appetite has cooled considerably.
这种包含多道菜式、耗时三小时的品尝菜单，曾被视为高级餐饮野心的极致体现。主厨将其设计为一场味蕾的旅程，而特定的饕客也乐于为这种体验腾出整个晚上的时间。然而，人们对这种用餐形式的热情如今已显著降温。
Tasting menus traditionally require three-hour commitments, but modern diners want chef-driven experiences in one-hour windows, with abbreviated formats catering to customers with time-conscious schedules or a simple preference for efficient dining. According to the US Consumer Price Index, "food away from home" rose about 6 percent from January 2024 to September 2025, driven by rising labor, rent, and ingredient costs. That kind of inflation puts the lengthy, expensive tasting menu under particular pressure.
传统的品尝菜单通常需要投入三小时的时间，但现代食客更倾向于在的一小时内获得由主厨主导的用餐体验。这种精简的形式正是为了迎合那些时间观念强、或单纯偏好高效用餐的顾客。根据美国消费者价格指数 (CPI) 的数据显示，由于人工、房租及食材成本的上涨，从2024年1月到2025年9月，“外食”价格上涨了约6%。这种通货膨胀让耗时长、价格昂贵的品尝菜单承受了巨大的压力。
Inflation has reshaped consumer dining habits broadly, with guests still wanting to eat out but in more rational, budget-conscious ways, and after sharp price hikes in 2025, more affordable concepts are now attracting wider audiences. A sixteen-course dinner costing several hundred dollars per person is a harder sell when grocery bills feel punishing.
通货膨胀广泛地重塑了消费者的餐饮习惯。虽然顾客仍有外食需求，但其方式变得更加理性且注重预算。在经历 2025 年的价格大幅飙升后，单价更亲民的餐饮理念正吸引着更广泛的受众。当日常超市账单都让人感到压力沉重时，每人耗资数百美元的 16 道菜晚宴就变得更难推销了。
5.The Kale Salad
羽衣甘蓝沙拉
For years, kale was the poster vegetable of the health-conscious restaurant movement. It showed up in salads, smoothies, sides, and grain bowls with relentless enthusiasm. Now it signals menu fatigue more than culinary creativity.
多年来，羽衣甘蓝一直是健康饮食潮流中的代表性蔬菜。它以极高的频率出现在沙拉、奶昔、配菜和谷物碗中，展现出一种经久不衰的热情。而现在，它的出现更多地象征着菜单创意的匮乏（审美疲劳），而非烹饪创意。
Industry consulting firm Menu Matters' vice president Mike Kostyo specifically called out kale salads as an example of dishes that have become too ubiquitous, advising operators to "get away from the single ingredient or dish that's everywhere" and to "have it in your toolbox but don't throw it on everything."
行业咨询公司Menu Matters的副总裁迈克·科斯蒂奥（Mike Kostyo）特别点名羽衣甘蓝沙拉，将其作为菜肴过于泛滥的典型。他建议经营者“应远离那些随处可见的单一食材或菜色”，并表示“可以将其留在你的工具箱里，但别把它撒在每样东西上”。
According to insight gathered by booking platform Resy, today's diners have "discerning palates" and look for "quality, transparency and uniqueness" in their meals. A predictable kale salad dressed in lemon vinaigrette checks none of those boxes anymore. Consumers have started seeking different and unique dining experiences, whether that means a fine dining night out where the menu highlights seasonal ingredients, or something that genuinely surprises them.
根据订座平台 Resy 收集的洞察显示，当今食客拥有“敏锐的味觉”，并在用餐中追求“品质、透明度和独特性”。一份可以预见的、拌着柠檬油醋汁的羽衣甘蓝沙拉已无法满足这些要求。消费者开始寻求与众不同的独特餐饮体验，无论是强调季节性食材的高级餐饮之夜，还是某些能带来真正惊喜的事物。
The kale salad, stripped of its novelty, simply no longer delivers that surprise.
羽衣甘蓝沙拉在失去了新鲜感光环之后，已完全无法再给食客们带来那种惊喜感了。
6. Luxury Ingredient-Stacked Dishes (Caviar, Wagyu, Uni)
堆砌奢侈食材的菜肴（诸如堆砌鱼子酱、和牛、海胆等食材）
Stacking multiple luxury ingredients onto a single dish became a kind of arms race in restaurant dining. Wagyu beef topped with uni, finished with caviar and truffle shavings. The more expensive the components, the more impressive the dish seemed.
在餐饮界，将多种奢华食材堆叠在同一道菜上，已演变成一种类似“军备竞赛”的现象。比如，在和牛之上覆以海胆，最后再洒上鱼子酱和松露片。这些成分越是昂贵，这道菜看起来就越显得“高大上”。
Chefs are now flagging this approach as style without substance. Chef Sam Hart, owner of Irreverently Refined Hospitality, called out "all the places that layer Wagyu, uni and caviar on top of sushi," saying that "the idea of taking 10 luxury items and piling them on top of each other loses the point of each of the ingredients."
厨师们现在正指出这种做法是“虚有其表”。Irreverently Refined Hospitality的所有者、主厨萨姆·哈特（Sam Hart）点名批评了“那些将和牛、海胆和鱼子酱层层堆叠在寿司上的餐厅”，并表示“将10种奢华食材堆在一起的想法，让每种食材都失去了其存在的意义”。
Executive chef David Garcia also noted that caviar can now be found on pretty much anything, "from a lobster roll to a fried chicken sandwich," which has made it "more of a mainstream, household staple rather than this luxury, special item."
执行主厨大卫·加西亚（David Garcia）也注意到，鱼子酱现在几乎可以出现在任何食物上，“从龙虾卷到炸鸡汉堡”，这使得它“更像是一种主流的家常主食，而非某种奢华、特殊的单品”。
The economics are shifting too. Spending growth in both full-service and limited-service restaurants has declined at roughly twice the rate of transaction growth in recent years, indicating that diners are still showing up to restaurants but trading down when they do.
经济形势也在发生变化。近年来，全服务型和有限服务型餐厅的消费增长降幅大约是交易量增幅的两倍。这表明食客虽然仍会光顾餐厅，但在消费时会选择更廉价的替代方案（即“降级消费”）。
Shelling out sixty dollars for a dish stacked with luxury garnishes feels harder to justify when budgets are tighter and expectations for genuine flavor have never been higher.
在食客们预算日益收紧、而对纯粹风味的期望却达到前所未有的高度时，花60美元去买一份仅仅依靠堆砌奢华食材的拼接菜肴，就愈发显得不合时宜了。
厨师们表示，食客们正在远离这6道曾经流行的菜肴
1.The plant-Based Burger
植物基汉堡/纯素汉堡
Few dishes captured the restaurant world's imagination quite like the plant-based burger. For a few years, it felt unstoppable. According to SPINS data analyzed by the Good Food Institute, US retail sales of most plant-based categories were down in 2024 against a backdrop of rising sales for conventional meat.
很少有菜肴能像植物基汉堡那样捕捉到餐饮界的想象力。有那么几年，它似乎势不可挡。根据Good Food Institute分析的SPINS数据，在传统肉类销售增长的背景下，2024年美国大多数植物基类别的零售额均出现下滑。
Sales of plant-based meat and seafood specifically dropped 7% to $1.2 billion in 2025, with unit sales falling an even steeper 11%. The decline wasn't a blip. It was a trend with legs.
具体而言，2025年植物基肉类和海鲜的销售额下降了7%，降至12亿美元，而销量跌幅更大，达到11%。这种下降并非偶然波动，而是一个持续的趋势。
Sales of refrigerated plant-based burgers, which were driving significant growth in the category a few years ago, continued their precipitous decline, dropping 26% year over year. Chefs who once championed these dishes are now rethinking their menu space. As Strong Roots CEO Sam Dennigan put it: "Everyone wants the planet to thrive but not at the cost of taste." Taste remains both the most frequently mentioned reason for repeat consumption of plant-based foods and the top barrier to trial.
几年前曾推动该类别显著增长的冷藏植物基汉堡销量继续急剧下降，同比下跌26%。曾经推崇这些菜肴的厨师们现在正在重新思考它们在菜单上的位置。正如Strong Roots首席执行官Sam Dennigan所说：“每个人都希望地球繁荣，但不愿以牺牲口味为代价。”口味仍然是人们重复消费植物基食品时最常提到的原因，也是尝试这类食品的最大障碍。
The plant-based burger isn't dead, but its dominance as a restaurant centerpiece clearly is.
植物基汉堡并未消亡，但它作为餐厅主打菜的主导地位显然已经结束。
2.Truffle-Everything Dishes
万物皆可松露的菜肴
Truffle oil on fries. Truffle shavings on pasta. Truffle butter on bread.
薯条上淋松露油，意大利面上撒松露片，面包上抹松露黄油。
For a solid decade, restaurants leaned on the word "truffle" the way marketers lean on the word "premium." It worked, for a while. Multiple chefs have now pushed back, with executive chef David Garcia of Eddie and Vinny's stating: "Uni, truffles, caviar - these ingredients used to be special. Now they're often tossed onto dishes just to make them seem more luxurious for Instagram.
在整整十年里，餐厅就像营销人员依赖“高端”一词那样依赖“松露”这个词。这在一段时间内很奏效。但现在多位厨师对此提出了反驳。Eddie and Vinny's的行政主厨David Garcia表示：“海胆、松露、鱼子酱——这些食材曾经很特别。现在它们往往被随意添加到菜肴中，只是为了让它们在Instagram上看起来更奢华。”
Presentation is sometimes prioritized over purpose, and the integrity of a dish can get lost in the hype." Chef Chuck Valla, owner of Valla Table, noted that he doesn't think truffles taste any better than dried shiitake mushrooms, while chef Sarabjit Singh Assi of Sanjh Restaurant and Bar warned that "the obsession with truffle mushrooms, especially when synthetic truffle oil is being used, overpowers dishes, lacks nuance and often masks what could have been great ingredients." When chefs themselves are calling a signature menu move overrated, diners tend to agree and stop ordering it.
“有时形式重于内容，菜肴的完整性可能在炒作中迷失。”Valla Table餐厅老板兼主厨Chuck Valla指出，他认为松露的味道并不比干香菇好多少。而Sanjh Restaurant and Bar的主厨Sarabjit Singh Assi警告说，“对松露蘑菇的痴迷，尤其是当使用合成松露油时，会压倒菜肴本身，缺乏细微差别，往往会掩盖原本可以很出色的食材。”当厨师们自己都说招牌菜被高估时，食客们往往会认同并停止点单。
3. Avocado Toast
牛油果吐司
Avocado toast had one of the most remarkable runs in modern food culture. It went from health-café curiosity to restaurant staple to cultural punchline in under a decade. Now, even chefs are questioning its staying power.
牛油果吐司在现代饮食文化中经历了最非凡的历程之一。在不到十年的时间里，它从健康咖啡馆的新奇事物变成了餐厅的主打菜，进而成为了文化笑柄。现在，就连厨师们也在质疑它的持久销售能力。
Sean Thompson, executive chef at Porter House, summed it up bluntly: "Avocado toast. Look, I have no problem with it, but the fact that it's been considered a trend for years still baffles me." Diners have grown equally weary. Its popularity is also part of a wider trend being challenged, as restaurants and diners seek out alternative toast toppings to the environmentally problematic avocado, with chefs showing that other ingredients needn't be boring.
Porter House的行政主厨Sean Thompson直截了当地总结道：“牛油果吐司。听着，我对此没有意见，但事实证明它多年来一直被视为一种趋势，这让我感到困惑。”食客们也同样感到厌倦。它的受欢迎程度也是受到挑战的更广泛趋势的一部分，因为餐厅和食客都在寻找牛油果（其生产对环境有负面影响）的替代吐司配料，厨师们也在展示其他食材不必枯燥无味。
Diner frustration is growing, with some openly complaining about paying high prices for what amounts to assembling the dish themselves, with no indication on the menu that it was "deconstructed." The concept still lingers, but it's no longer the statement dish it once was.
食客的挫败感日益增长，有些人公开抱怨花高价购买基本上可以自己组装的菜肴，而菜单上却没有迹象表明这是“解构版”。这个概念仍然存在，但它已不再是曾经那种具有声明意义的菜肴。
4.The Long Tasting Menu
超长品尝菜单（通常是指高级餐厅提供的一种多道菜式、耗时较长的用餐形式，旨在全面展示主厨的烹饪技艺和餐厅的精髓）
The multi-course, three-hour tasting menu was once the ultimate expression of fine dining ambition. Chefs designed them as culinary journeys, and certain diners happily cleared an entire evening for the experience. That appetite has cooled considerably.
这种包含多道菜式、耗时三小时的品尝菜单，曾被视为高级餐饮野心的极致体现。主厨将其设计为一场味蕾的旅程，而特定的饕客也乐于为这种体验腾出整个晚上的时间。然而，人们对这种用餐形式的热情如今已显著降温。
Tasting menus traditionally require three-hour commitments, but modern diners want chef-driven experiences in one-hour windows, with abbreviated formats catering to customers with time-conscious schedules or a simple preference for efficient dining. According to the US Consumer Price Index, "food away from home" rose about 6 percent from January 2024 to September 2025, driven by rising labor, rent, and ingredient costs. That kind of inflation puts the lengthy, expensive tasting menu under particular pressure.
传统的品尝菜单通常需要投入三小时的时间，但现代食客更倾向于在的一小时内获得由主厨主导的用餐体验。这种精简的形式正是为了迎合那些时间观念强、或单纯偏好高效用餐的顾客。根据美国消费者价格指数 (CPI) 的数据显示，由于人工、房租及食材成本的上涨，从2024年1月到2025年9月，“外食”价格上涨了约6%。这种通货膨胀让耗时长、价格昂贵的品尝菜单承受了巨大的压力。
Inflation has reshaped consumer dining habits broadly, with guests still wanting to eat out but in more rational, budget-conscious ways, and after sharp price hikes in 2025, more affordable concepts are now attracting wider audiences. A sixteen-course dinner costing several hundred dollars per person is a harder sell when grocery bills feel punishing.
通货膨胀广泛地重塑了消费者的餐饮习惯。虽然顾客仍有外食需求，但其方式变得更加理性且注重预算。在经历 2025 年的价格大幅飙升后，单价更亲民的餐饮理念正吸引着更广泛的受众。当日常超市账单都让人感到压力沉重时，每人耗资数百美元的 16 道菜晚宴就变得更难推销了。
5.The Kale Salad
羽衣甘蓝沙拉
For years, kale was the poster vegetable of the health-conscious restaurant movement. It showed up in salads, smoothies, sides, and grain bowls with relentless enthusiasm. Now it signals menu fatigue more than culinary creativity.
多年来，羽衣甘蓝一直是健康饮食潮流中的代表性蔬菜。它以极高的频率出现在沙拉、奶昔、配菜和谷物碗中，展现出一种经久不衰的热情。而现在，它的出现更多地象征着菜单创意的匮乏（审美疲劳），而非烹饪创意。
Industry consulting firm Menu Matters' vice president Mike Kostyo specifically called out kale salads as an example of dishes that have become too ubiquitous, advising operators to "get away from the single ingredient or dish that's everywhere" and to "have it in your toolbox but don't throw it on everything."
行业咨询公司Menu Matters的副总裁迈克·科斯蒂奥（Mike Kostyo）特别点名羽衣甘蓝沙拉，将其作为菜肴过于泛滥的典型。他建议经营者“应远离那些随处可见的单一食材或菜色”，并表示“可以将其留在你的工具箱里，但别把它撒在每样东西上”。
According to insight gathered by booking platform Resy, today's diners have "discerning palates" and look for "quality, transparency and uniqueness" in their meals. A predictable kale salad dressed in lemon vinaigrette checks none of those boxes anymore. Consumers have started seeking different and unique dining experiences, whether that means a fine dining night out where the menu highlights seasonal ingredients, or something that genuinely surprises them.
根据订座平台 Resy 收集的洞察显示，当今食客拥有“敏锐的味觉”，并在用餐中追求“品质、透明度和独特性”。一份可以预见的、拌着柠檬油醋汁的羽衣甘蓝沙拉已无法满足这些要求。消费者开始寻求与众不同的独特餐饮体验，无论是强调季节性食材的高级餐饮之夜，还是某些能带来真正惊喜的事物。
The kale salad, stripped of its novelty, simply no longer delivers that surprise.
羽衣甘蓝沙拉在失去了新鲜感光环之后，已完全无法再给食客们带来那种惊喜感了。
6. Luxury Ingredient-Stacked Dishes (Caviar, Wagyu, Uni)
堆砌奢侈食材的菜肴（诸如堆砌鱼子酱、和牛、海胆等食材）
Stacking multiple luxury ingredients onto a single dish became a kind of arms race in restaurant dining. Wagyu beef topped with uni, finished with caviar and truffle shavings. The more expensive the components, the more impressive the dish seemed.
在餐饮界，将多种奢华食材堆叠在同一道菜上，已演变成一种类似“军备竞赛”的现象。比如，在和牛之上覆以海胆，最后再洒上鱼子酱和松露片。这些成分越是昂贵，这道菜看起来就越显得“高大上”。
Chefs are now flagging this approach as style without substance. Chef Sam Hart, owner of Irreverently Refined Hospitality, called out "all the places that layer Wagyu, uni and caviar on top of sushi," saying that "the idea of taking 10 luxury items and piling them on top of each other loses the point of each of the ingredients."
厨师们现在正指出这种做法是“虚有其表”。Irreverently Refined Hospitality的所有者、主厨萨姆·哈特（Sam Hart）点名批评了“那些将和牛、海胆和鱼子酱层层堆叠在寿司上的餐厅”，并表示“将10种奢华食材堆在一起的想法，让每种食材都失去了其存在的意义”。
Executive chef David Garcia also noted that caviar can now be found on pretty much anything, "from a lobster roll to a fried chicken sandwich," which has made it "more of a mainstream, household staple rather than this luxury, special item."
执行主厨大卫·加西亚（David Garcia）也注意到，鱼子酱现在几乎可以出现在任何食物上，“从龙虾卷到炸鸡汉堡”，这使得它“更像是一种主流的家常主食，而非某种奢华、特殊的单品”。
The economics are shifting too. Spending growth in both full-service and limited-service restaurants has declined at roughly twice the rate of transaction growth in recent years, indicating that diners are still showing up to restaurants but trading down when they do.
经济形势也在发生变化。近年来，全服务型和有限服务型餐厅的消费增长降幅大约是交易量增幅的两倍。这表明食客虽然仍会光顾餐厅，但在消费时会选择更廉价的替代方案（即“降级消费”）。
Shelling out sixty dollars for a dish stacked with luxury garnishes feels harder to justify when budgets are tighter and expectations for genuine flavor have never been higher.
在食客们预算日益收紧、而对纯粹风味的期望却达到前所未有的高度时，花60美元去买一份仅仅依靠堆砌奢华食材的拼接菜肴，就愈发显得不合时宜了。
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10道曾风靡一时现在却几乎销声匿迹的家庭餐点，以及它们淡出大众视野的原因
1.TV Dinners: The Frozen Convenience That Lost Its Appeal
电视晚餐：失去吸引力的冷冻预制快餐
According to data from the U.S. Census Bureau, between 1950 and 1955, the percentage of American households owning TVs jumped from 9% to over 64%. That explosion of television ownership made TV dinners a cultural phenomenon. Families suddenly wanted easy meals they could eat in front of the screen without missing a moment of their favorite shows.
根据美国人口普查局的数据，1950年至1955年间，拥有电视的美国家庭比例从9%飙升至64%以上。电视拥有量的爆炸式增长使“电视晚餐”成为一种文化现象。家庭突然想要那种可以轻松在屏幕前享用、不会错过任何精彩节目的简便餐食。
The Swanson company invented the commercial TV dinner in 1953, and it became an instant sensation. People loved the aluminum trays that could go straight from freezer to oven. Everything seemed modern and efficient.
斯旺森（Swanson）公司于1953年发明了商业化的电视晚餐，并瞬间引起轰动。人们喜欢那种可以直接从冷冻室放入烤箱的铝制托盘。一切看起来都既现代又高效。
The downfall started when health consciousness took hold. Many diners gradually became concerned about the nutritional value of these ultra-easy meals, and the public developed a perception that microwaved TV dinners were lacking in essential nutrients and were highly processed, full of saturated fats and sodium. By 2008, frozen dinner sales were in decline and the frozen food aisle started to shrink.
转折点始于健康意识的觉醒。许多食客逐渐开始担心这些超便捷餐食的营养价值，公众形成了一种看法，即微波加热的电视晚餐缺乏必需营养素，且经过高度加工，富含饱和脂肪和钠。到2008年，冷冻晚餐的销量开始下滑，冷冻食品过道也开始萎缩。
Fresh food and farm-to-table movements made those compartmentalized trays look increasingly artificial.
新鲜食材和“从农场到餐桌”运动的兴起，让那些分隔式的铝箔托盘餐点越来越显得廉价且不自然。
2.Casseroles: The One-Dish Wonder That Became Outdated
锅炖菜/焗烤菜：变得过时的“一锅出”奇迹
Casseroles were everywhere during the fifties and sixties. They symbolized efficiency and comfort all at once. You could throw together leftovers, canned soup, some noodles or rice, top it with cheese, and bake.
在二十世纪五六十年代，锅炖菜/焗烤菜无处不在。它同时象征着效率和舒适。你可以把剩菜、罐头汤、一些面条或米饭混合在一起，上面撒上奶酪，然后烘烤。
Done. The casserole became an American staple in the Depression, when cheap but filling meals were essential, and rose in popularity during World War II as women began to enter the workplace in large numbers, reaching its heyday in the fifties. Honestly, it made sense back then.
这种菜式在大萧条时期成为美国的主食，当时廉价但能填饱肚子的饭菜至关重要；而在二战期间，随着女性开始大量步入职场，这种菜式的普及率进一步提升，并在20世纪50年代达到了全盛时期。坦白说，这在当时确实非常合情合理。
In the 1950's, the availability of lightweight oven-proof cookware and the greater availability of canned foods made the casserole a simple, easy and cheap way to use leftover foods to feed the whole family. As Americans became more health-conscious, the venerable casserole faded in popularity, as people wanted fresh, healthy food, and that didn't usually include convenience foods high in fat and sodium. During the late 1980s casseroles fell out of vogue, became passé, as Americans began to rely on fresh foods lower in sodium and processed additives.
在20世纪50年代，轻便耐热厨具的问世以及罐头食品的广泛普及，使得锅炖菜成为一种简单、便捷且廉价的选择，能利用剩菜喂饱全家人。随着美国人的健康意识不断增强，这种曾受人推崇的菜式逐渐失宠，因为人们开始渴望新鲜、健康的食物，而这通常不包括那些高脂肪、高钠的便捷食品。到了 80 年代末，锅炖菜彻底失势并变得过时，因为美国人开始转而依赖低钠、少加工添加剂的新鲜食材。
The very convenience that once made them beloved started to feel like a shortcut too far.
曾经让他们备受青睐的那种便利感，如今却让人觉得有些走捷径走过了头。
3.Pot Roast: Sunday Dinners That Took Too Long
锅烧肉：耗时过久的周日晚餐
A true American dinner, the Pot Roast has been a part of Sunday evenings for millions of families over the last few decades, though the popularity of a roast dinner has declined somewhat in recent years. That slow transformation from tough chuck into fork-tender perfection used to define weekend cooking. The aroma alone could fill a house for hours.
作为一道地道的美国晚餐，在过去的几十年里，锅烧肉曾是数百万家庭周日晚间的餐桌常客，尽管这种烤肉晚餐的普及程度在近年来有所下降。这种将干硬的牛肩胛肉通过慢炖转化为入口即化的美味过程，曾是周末烹饪的标志。单是那种香气，就能在屋里萦绕数小时。
The problem? Modern life accelerated. Pot roast once meant Sunday patience, the house slowly filling with savory perfume, but fast lives do not always allow low and slow, so it faded behind pressure cookers and quick sautés.
问题出在哪？现代生活加速了。锅烧肉曾意味着周日的耐心等待，房屋里会慢慢充满咸鲜的香气；但快节奏的生活并不总能容许这种“低火慢炖”，因此它逐渐被压力锅和快速小炒所取代。
People wanted dinner in thirty minutes, not three hours. Unfortunately, most restaurants don't have pot roast on the menu anymore. Even diners and family chains that once featured it prominently are trimming their offerings.
人们想要的是30分钟内的晚餐，而不是3个小时。不幸的是，大多数餐厅的菜单上已经不再有长时间慢炖的肉类了。即使是曾经将其作为主打菜的普通餐馆和家庭连锁餐厅，也在削减这道菜。
When something takes that much time and effort, it's hard to compete with takeout apps and meal kits promising speed and variety.
当一件事需要投入如此多的时间与精力时，面对那些承诺极速且多样化的外卖APP和半成品料理包，它实在难以与之竞争。
4.Meatloaf: The Budget Stretcher That Fell From Grace
肉饼/长条肉卷：跌落神坛的省钱利器
Meatloaf once ruled weeknight dinners across America. Ground beef mixed with breadcrumbs, eggs, maybe some onions, topped with that iconic ketchup glaze. Simple, filling, cheap.
肉饼曾经统治着全美的工作日晚餐。碎牛肉混合面包屑、鸡蛋，也许还有一些洋葱，上面涂上标志性的番茄酱釉。简单、管饱、便宜
The Great Depression (1929-1941) made cheap meals, cheap meat cuts, and leftovers a real necessity, and from this catastrophic event straight into World War II, when Americans once again were forced to stretch rationed meats as far as possible, meatloaf came to the rescue. It was the hero dish of hard times. Every family had a version.
大萧条（1929-1941）使得廉价餐食、廉价肉类部位和剩菜成为真正的必需品，而从这场灾难性事件直接进入二战时期，美国人再次被迫尽可能延长配给肉类的食用时间，肉饼应运而生。它是艰难时期的英雄菜肴。每个家庭都有自己的版本。
Meatloaf is seeing a decline in popularity as dining trends shift towards plant-based and global cuisines, and as modern palates evolve, meatloaf has begun to be seen as somewhat old-fashioned. Younger generations don't seem to crave it the way their grandparents did. The rise of international flavors and fresh-focused cooking left meatloaf feeling bland and dated.
随着饮食趋势转向植物基和全球美食，以及现代口味的演变，肉饼的受欢迎程度正在下降，它开始被视为有点老派。年轻一代似乎不像他们的祖父母那样渴望它。国际风味和注重新鲜的烹饪方式的兴起，让肉饼显得平淡无奇且过时。
5.Tuna Casserole: Canned Convenience Meets Fresh Food Backlash
金枪鱼锅炖：罐头便利性遭遇新鲜食材抵制
This was the ultimate midweek shortcut. Canned tuna, egg noodles, cream of mushroom soup, frozen peas, maybe some breadcrumbs on top. Pop it in the oven and you had dinner in under an hour.
这是最极致的周中晚餐“捷径”：罐头金枪鱼、鸡蛋面、奶油蘑菇浓汤、冷冻豌豆，顶层或许再撒点面包屑。塞进烤箱，不到一小时你就能吃上饭了。
Tuna casserole, known for its simple ingredients like canned tuna, peas, and noodles in a creamy sauce, was a go-to midweek dinner for busy post-war American families, but concerns over processed foods and a move towards fresher, lighter meals have lessened its appeal, and the dish now often evokes a sense of nostalgia rather than a culinary delight.
金枪鱼锅炖以其简单的食材——如罐头金枪鱼、豌豆和拌入奶油酱的面条——而闻名，曾是战后忙碌美国国家庭周中晚餐的首选。然而，随着人们对加工食品的担忧以及向更健康、更清淡饮食的转型，它的吸引力已大不如前；如今，这道菜往往更多地是唤起一种怀旧感，而非烹饪上的享受。
Let's be real, canned soup and canned fish started to feel like too many shortcuts at once. The farm-to-table movement didn't help.
说实话，同时使用罐头浓汤和鱼罐头，让人感觉这种“走捷径”的做法使得食材堆砌过度了。而“从农场到餐桌”运动的兴起，更是让它的处境雪上加霜。
People wanted to know where their food came from, and a can labeled "cream of something" didn't exactly inspire confidence. Modern versions skip the canned soup in favor of homemade sauces, but by then the damage was done. The classic version had already been left behind.
人们想要知道自己食物的来源，而一个贴着“某某奶油浓汤”标签的罐头显然无法激发这种信任感。现代版本的食谱虽然舍弃了罐头汤，转而采用自制酱汁，但此时已于事无补。那个经典的最初版本早已被时代抛弃了。
6.Salisbury Steak: The TV Dinner Star That Couldn't Shake Its Reputation
索尔兹伯里牛排：难以摆脱“电视晚餐”标签的昔日之星
Salisbury steak was basically a glorified hamburger patty smothered in gravy. It became a frozen dinner staple, right next to those compartments of mashed potatoes and mystery vegetables. It gained widespread popularity as a frozen TV dinner but has seen a decline as diners opt for fresher, less processed meat dishes, and the dish now mostly lives on nostalgia and comfort food menus.
索尔兹伯里牛排本质上就是一种淋满了肉汁的“升级版”汉堡肉饼。它曾是冷冻晚餐中的主打产品，紧挨着那几格土豆泥和成分不明的混合蔬菜。虽然它作为电视晚餐赢得了广泛普及，但随着食客们转向追求更优质、加工更少的新鲜肉类菜肴，它的地位已逐渐下降。如今，这道菜大多只存在于主打怀旧风或灵魂食物的菜单之上。
Once people started questioning frozen dinners in general, Salisbury steak got caught in the crossfire. There's also the texture problem. Reheated from frozen, it could turn rubbery or mushy depending on how long you microwaved it.
一旦人们开始普遍质疑冷冻晚餐，索尔兹伯里牛排便不可避免地受到了波及。此外还存在口感问题：从冷冻状态重新加热后，由于微波时间长短不一，它要么变得像橡胶一样有嚼劲，要么变得软烂如泥。
Honestly, when fresh burgers and quick-cook steaks became just as accessible, why settle for something that reminded you of a school cafeteria lunch? The nostalgia factor only goes so far when taste and quality matter more.
说实话，当新鲜汉堡和快煮牛排变得同样触手可及，谁还会愿意迁就那种让你想起学校食堂午餐的东西呢？当口感和品质变得更为重要时，单纯靠怀旧情结已难以维系。
7.Green Bean Casserole: Holiday Holdout With a Processed Past
青豆锅炖（常见的速冻青豆实际就是青豌豆）：带有加工食品印记的节日坚守者
Green Bean Casserole was invented in a Campbell's test kitchen in 1955, and by the seventies, it had broken free from its Thanksgiving-only reputation as the combination of green beans, cream-of-mushroom soup, and crispy fried onions became a year-round fixture at potlucks and buffet lines. For decades, it was everywhere. Casseroles were criticized for their emphasis on cheese, heavy cream and other fattening ingredients.
青豆锅炖于1955年诞生在金宝汤公司的试验厨房里。到了70年代，由于青豆、奶油蘑菇浓汤和酥炸洋葱碎的组合成了派对聚餐和自助餐线的常客，它便摆脱了仅限感恩节供应的标签。几十年来，它随处可见。但由于过度强调奶酪、重奶油及其他易胖食材，这类锅炖菜也一直饱受诟病。
Green bean casserole specifically took heat for relying so heavily on canned soup and fried onion toppings from a can. It felt emblematic of the overly processed era. Interestingly, green bean casserole still shows up at Thanksgiving tables, but it's increasingly the only time anyone makes it.
青豆锅炖尤其因为过度依赖罐装浓汤和罐装炸洋葱碎而备受抨击。它被视为那个加工食品过剩时代的缩影。有趣的是，青豆锅炖至今仍会出现在感恩节的餐桌上，但这越来越成为人们唯一会想起制作这道菜的时刻。
The rest of the year? People opt for roasted vegetables or fresh salads instead. It survives on tradition more than taste at this point.
至于一年里的其他时间？人们更倾向于选择烤蔬菜或新鲜沙拉。就目前而言，它的存在更多是靠传统情怀支撑，而非味道本身。
8.Boiled Dinners: One-Pot Simplicity That Lost Its Shine
水煮餐：失去光芒的一锅式简餐
Boiled dinner, or New England Boiled Dinner, a meal consisting of corned beef boiled alongside potatoes, carrots, and cabbage, has seen decreased popularity outside its regional roots, as this one-pot meal, valued for its simplicity and heartiness, has been overshadowed by more complex and aesthetically pleasing dishes in the modern culinary scene.
水煮餐，或称“新英格兰水煮餐（New England Boiled Dinner）”，是由咸牛肉与土豆、胡萝卜及卷心菜一同煮制而成的餐点。尽管这种“一锅出”菜肴因其简便和扎实而曾备受推崇，但在现代烹饪界，它的普及程度在其发源地以外已大幅下降，被那些更复杂且更具美感的菜肴所掩盖。
Boiling everything together sounds practical, but it doesn't exactly create visual drama. The shift toward Instagram-worthy plates didn't help.
将所有食材煮在一起听起来确实很实用，但这并不能创造出什么视觉冲击力。在如今这个追求“适合发社交媒体”的摆盘趋势下，这种乏善可陈的形式显然落伍了。
Food became performance art, and a plate of beige boiled vegetables and meat didn't photograph well. Roasting, grilling, and searing offered better flavor and better presentation. Regional traditions kept boiled dinners alive in pockets of New England and the Midwest, but beyond those areas, they quietly disappeared.
美食逐渐演变成了一种表演艺术，而一盘色调单一、暗淡无光的水煮蔬菜和肉类，拍起照来并不好看。相比之下，烘烤、烧烤和煎制能提供更丰富的风味以及更精美的视觉呈现。虽然地域传统让水煮餐在新英格兰和中西部的一些地区得以保留，但在这些区域之外，它们已悄然销声匿迹。
Younger cooks wanted recipes that felt exciting and fresh, not something their great-grandparents made during wartime rationing.
年轻一代的厨师追求的是那种充满新鲜感、令人兴奋的食谱，而不是曾祖父母辈在战争配给年代所做的那些东西。
9.Jell-O Salads: The Gelatin Craze That Became a Punchline
果冻沙拉：从明胶狂热到沦为笑柄
Jell-O salads, often mixed with fruits or vegetables, were a fixture at many mid-20th-century American gatherings, but these gelatin-based dishes are no longer the party centerpiece they once were. Lime Jell-O with shredded carrots? Orange gelatin with cottage cheese and pineapple?
果冻沙拉通常将水果或蔬菜混入其中，是20世纪中期美国许多聚会的常客。然而，这些以明胶为基底的菜肴如今已不再像往昔那样占据聚会的C位。无论是加入胡萝卜丝的青柠果冻亦或是拌入茅屋芝士（Cottage Cheese）和凤梨的橙味果冻？
It sounds wild now, but it was considered creative and modern back then. The decline came fast once people started questioning why fruit needed to be suspended in wobbly gelatin in the first place.
现在听起来可能觉得不可思议，但在当时，这被视为极具创意且现代的吃法。一旦人们开始质疑“为什么水果非得悬浮在晃晃悠悠的明胶里”时，这种潮流便迅速衰退了。
Jell-O salad, which mixes gelatin with ingredients like fruit, nuts, and sometimes vegetables or even seafood, has significantly dropped in favor, and is now often cited as a puzzling culinary artifact of the past, with the decline lixed to changing tastes and a move away from heavily processed foods.
果冻沙拉将明胶与水果、坚果，甚至蔬菜或海鲜混合在一起，如今这种吃法已风光不再。它现在常被当作一个令人费解的“过去时代的烹饪遗迹”而被提起；其没落归因于口味的转变，以及人们对重度加工食品的疏远。
These days, Jell-O salads are more meme material than actual menu items. They show up in retro-themed parties or ironic potlucks, but nobody seriously serves them expecting compliments. The aesthetic alone became a cautionary tale about food trends gone too far.
如今，果冻沙拉更多是作为“梗图”素材存在，而非真正的菜单菜品。它们偶尔出现在复古主题派对或带有反讽意味的自带菜聚会（potlucks）中，但没人会正儿八经地端出它们并期待获得赞赏。单是这种审美本身，就已成为饮食趋势走向极端的反面教材。
10.Deviled Ham Spread: The Canned Mystery Meat Nobody Misses
恶魔火腿抹酱：无人怀念的罐装神秘肉食
Deviled ham came in those distinctive little cans with the devil logo. You'd spread it on crackers or white bread for a quick snack or light lunch. It was salty, processed, and vaguely meat-flavored.
这种“恶魔火腿”装在带有标志性小恶魔 Logo 的独特小罐头里。你会把它抹在饼干或白面包上，当作简餐或午饭。它咸度很高，带有浓重的加工感，且只有一种模糊的肉味。
As fresh deli meats and artisan spreads became widely available, deviled ham lost its footing. Why eat something that tasted faintly chemical when you could get freshly sliced turkey or a gourmet pâté? The rise of food transparency movements also made people wary of mystery ingredients in tiny cans.
随着新鲜熟食肉类和手工涂抹酱的广泛普及，魔鬼火腿失去了立足之地。当你可以吃到新鲜切片的火鸡或美食肉酱时，为什么要吃那种尝起来有点化学味道的东西呢？食品透明度运动的兴起也让人们对小罐头里的神秘成分感到警惕。
The family dinner was once a ubiquitous feature of American life, but it has disappeared in many households, and far fewer Americans report having regular meals with their family during their formative years, as Baby Boomers were far more likely to have grown up having meals with their families than Millennials and Gen Zers.
家庭晚餐曾是美国生活中无处不在的特征，但它已在许多家庭中消失了。报告称在成长阶段经常与家人共进晚餐的美国人比例大幅下降，婴儿潮一代在成长过程中与家人共餐的可能性远高于千禧一代和Z世代。
Deviled ham was a casualty of that broader shift. As family dinners became less common and tastes became more sophisticated, products like deviled ham simply couldn't keep up.
恶魔火腿便是这一更广泛变革下的牺牲品。随着家庭晚餐变得不再普遍，且人们的口味变得更加挑剔精致，像恶魔火腿这样的产品已完全无法跟上时代的步伐。
These ten meals tell a bigger story about how American eating habits transformed over the last few decades. Economic pressures, health awareness, and changing family structures all played roles. What once felt modern and convenient eventually became outdated and unhealthy.
这十种餐点讲述了一个更宏大的故事，反映了过去几十年间美国饮食习惯的变迁。经济压力、健康意识以及家庭结构的改变都在其中起到了推动作用。那些曾经让人感到现代且便捷的东西，最终都变得过时且不健康了。
Maybe some of these dishes deserve a comeback with better ingredients and upxed techniques. Others might be better left to memory. Either way, they shaped generations of dinners and defined what comfort food meant for millions of families.
也许这些菜肴中的一部分值得配上更好的食材和改良的技艺，重回大众视野；而另一些，或许更适合留在记忆里。无论如何，它们曾塑造了数代人的晚餐，也定义了数百万家庭心中“灵魂食物”的味道。
What do you think? Do any of these meals bring back memories, or are you glad they faded away?
您觉得呢？这些餐点是否勾起了您的某些回忆？还是说您庆幸它们已经淡出了大众视野？