A Childhood Favorite Reimagined

童年最爱的美食
原创翻译：龙腾网 http://www.ltaaa.cn 转载请注明出处


Harissa and lamb, pork and fennel, and vegan mushroom with leeks and farro make sophisticated fillings for the humble Australian sausage roll.

腌牛肉、羊肉、猪肉、茴香、素食蘑菇、韭菜和法罗，这些都是不起眼的澳大利亚香肠卷复杂的馅料。


These Australian sausage rolls are inspired by those made at Bourke Street Bakery near Madison Square Park in Manhattan.
Warm and flaky sausage rolls, stuffed with savory meat and striped with ketchup, may not have been school cafeteria fare in Brooklyn while I was growing up. But they were in Australia for Paul Allam, where, as a kid, he used to long for one to appear at his primary school lunch table, tucked into a crumpled brown paper bag, steaming and a little soggy in the best possible way.

这些澳大利亚香肠卷的灵感，来自曼哈顿麦迪逊广场公园附近的伯克街面包店。
在我成长的那个年代，热乎乎的薄片香肠卷，里面塞满了美味的肉，还带着番茄酱，也许是布鲁克林学校食堂没有的食物。但对于澳大利亚的保罗·阿拉姆来说，这是最好的选择。小时候，他常常希望自己小学的午餐桌上出现一个这样的美食，塞在一个皱巴巴的棕色纸袋里，冒着热气，还有点湿乎乎的。

Now, as a professional baker and an owner of Bourke Street Bakery, Mr. Allam’s goal has been to tweak the humble sausage roll into something reflecting his adult sensibilities, using better ingredients and more sophisticated flavor combinations. At the Manhattan outpost of his Sydney-based bakery group, he offers a heady fennel-scented pork roll, a mellow turkey-cranberry roll and a rotating sextion of vegetable rolls, filled with the likes of eggplant with chiles or spinach with feta.

现在，作为一名专业面包师和伯克街面包店的老板，阿拉姆的目标是用更好的配料和更复杂的口味组合，把不起眼的香肠卷改造成能反映他成熟情感的东西。他的面包房集团总部位于悉尼，在曼哈顿的分店里，他提供令人兴奋的茴香味猪肉卷、醇香的火鸡-蔓越莓卷和旋转的蔬菜卷，里面有茄子和辣椒，菠菜和羊乳酪。

But it was the harissa-tinged lamb version, laced with a smattering of currants and almonds, that I fell head over heels for. So much so that when I put subway rides on a pandemic-temporary hold, I called Mr. Allam for the recipe.

不过，我最喜欢的还是那种带哈利萨风味的羊肉，外加少许葡萄干和杏仁。以至于当我疫情期间暂停乘坐地铁时，我给阿拉姆先生打了电话，向他要了配方。


These lamb sausage rolls have a mix of heat and sweetness.
He was happy to oblige — with the caveat that his sausage rolls were a bit of a departure from the ones found in school cafeterias, not to mention in petrol stations throughout Australia.

这些羊肉香肠卷混合了热量和甜味。
他很乐意答应——但警告说，他的香肠卷和学校食堂里的有点不一样，更别提澳大利亚各地加油站里的了。

“The traditional sausage rolls you got at school were made from cartilage, and the stuff they swept up from the floor,” he told me, possibly joking. “If you went to a bourgeoise school maybe you got celery. It didn’t matter, it still tasted great.Food memories from childhood are very strong, they stay with you,” he added.

“你在学校里吃到的传统香肠卷是用软骨做的，还有他们从地板上扫来的东西，”他告诉我，可能是开玩笑。“如果你上的是中产阶级学校，可能还会有芹菜。没关系，它还是很好吃的。童年的食物记忆非常强烈，它们陪伴着你。”他补充道。

I understood perfectly, I told him, remembering my beloved elementary school egg salad sandwiches … and, you know, Proust’s madeleines.

我完全理解，我告诉他，想起了我小学时最爱的鸡蛋沙拉三明治……还有，普鲁斯特的玛德琳蛋糕。

Before we even hung up the phone, my inbox pinged. Mr. Allam had sent the lamb roll recipe, along with another for the pork fennel rolls, which, he noted, ran neck and neck in popularity with the lamb version. Maybe I’d want to try them both?

我们还没挂电话，我的收件箱就响了。阿拉姆先生发来了羊肉卷的食谱，还有猪肉茴香卷的食谱。他说，猪肉茴香卷和羊肉卷一样受欢迎。也许我两种都想试试?

Being fairly new to the world of sausage rolls, I was happy to explore. In the end I still like the lamb, with its mix of heat and sweetness, best. But the brawny pork rolls were also delicious, infused with anise-flavored fennel, garlic and thyme.

作为制作香肠卷的新手，我很乐意去探索。最后我还是喜欢羊肉，它的热量和甜味的混合是最好的。但粗壮的猪肉卷也很美味，里面加入了茴香、大蒜和百里香。

Although Mr. Allam said I could use flaky pie dough if I wanted, puff pastry is the classic sausage roll crust. Naturally, Mr. Allam makes his own with loads of good butter. And he is also working on a vegan version using plant-based butter.

尽管阿拉姆先生说，如果我愿意，我可以用薄饼面团，但松饼是一种经典的香肠卷皮。当然，阿拉姆先生自己做会用大量上等黄油。他还在用植物黄油制作素食版本。


Find vegan puff pastry, and you can make a plant-based version filled with sautéed mushrooms, leeks and farro.Credit...

找到一种素食酥皮，你也可以做一种蔬菜版本的，里面加入炒蘑菇、韭菜和法罗。

I substituted a good, all-butter brand of frozen puff pastry, and the rolls baked up beautifully bronzed and airy. But feel free to use your favorite pie dough recipe here instead. Or, if you’re in the mood for a challenge, homemade puff pastry would be the sausage roll pinnacle.

我换了一种优质的全黄油牌的冷冻酥皮，面包卷烤成漂亮的古铜色，并且很松软。不过你也可以用你最喜欢的馅饼面团配方来代替。或者，如果你想挑战，自制的松饼卷是顶尖的香肠卷。

As for the filling, you could also substitute other ground meats like turkey or chicken, for the lamb or the pork.

至于馅料，你也可以用火鸡或鸡肉等其他肉馅代替羊肉或猪肉。

Not wanting to stop with just meat, I experimented with several vegetarian versions, too. My favorite combined sautéed mushrooms and leeks with chewy farro to thicken the mix and almond butter to make it creamy. Even better, you can turn this vegan by using pastry made with plant-based butter (Pepperidge Farm makes a widely available one).

我不想只吃肉，也尝试了几个素食版本。我最喜欢的是把蘑菇、韭菜和耐嚼的香菜混合在一起，使混合物变浓稠，再加上杏仁黄油，使其呈奶油状。更妙的是，你可以用植物黄油做的糕点(“非凡农庄”就有一种很常见的植物黄油)来转变这种素食主义。

Although Mr. Allam swears that ketchup (called tomato sauce in Australia) is the ideal accompaniment for sausage rolls, I didn’t use it on any of them. Childhood food memories can only get you so far.

尽管阿拉姆先生发誓番茄酱是香肠卷理想的配菜，但我没有在任何一种香肠卷上加番茄酱。童年的食物记忆只能给你带来这么多。