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Thursday, September 12th: Siping.

9月12日，星期四：四平。

Celebrity!

名人!

Siping is a town in northeast China. I lived and worked there for the academic year 1982-3, lecturing in English at what was then Siping Normal (i.e. teacher-training) College. Rosie (pictured right)was one of my students. Another one—a classmate of Rosie’s, now a lecturer himself—has invited us up there to look at the place 36 years on from when we knew it.

四平是中国东北的一座小城市。1982- 1983学年，我在那里工作和生活，在当时的四平师范学院教英语。罗西(图右)是我的学生。另一位是罗西的同学，现在是大学讲师，他邀请我们到36年前工作和生活过的地方看看。

This ex-student’s name is Geoffrey, as in Chaucer. Having no confidence in my ability to hold dozens of Chinese names in my head, when teaching at Siping I awarded all my students English names, from English literature.

这位前学生的名字叫杰弗里，和乔叟同名。当年我对记住几十个中国人的名字没有信心，所以在四平教书的时候，我给班里所有同学都起了英文名，这些名字都来自英国文学作品。

Geoffrey and another lecturer meet us at the station and drive us to the college, where we are to be put up for the night at college expense. The other guy has a camera—a real one, not just a smartphone camera—and is diligently recording the whole thing. We soon grasp that I am in fact something of a celebrity, almost a historical figure hereabouts.

杰弗里和另外一位老师到车站接我们，然后开车把我们送到学校，我们住在学校里，费用由学校承担。这一路一直有人扛着一台相机，真正的相机，不是智能手机上的相机，孜孜不倦地记录着整个过程。我们很快就意识到，原来我在当地还算个名人，差不多是这一带的历史人物。

Siping Normal College, which had around a thousand students back in 1983, is now Jilin Normal University with 30,000. I was its first-ever foreign lecturer. When I arrived in 1982 I was in fact the only foreigner for seventy miles around, and a major attraction to the citizens of Siping, who would stop and stare as I walked past.

1983年，四平师范学院只有大约1000来名学生，现在成了吉林师范大学，有将近3万名学生。我是这所大学第一位外国讲师。1982年我刚来的时候，是方圆70英里唯一的外国人，也是四平市民的一大看点，我走在马路上，大家都停下来盯着我看。

If I myself stopped walking and just stood still a while, a big crowd would gather to look at me. A couple of times they blocked traffic and police were running round blowing whistles to clear the road. (Another foreign teacher joined the staff in Spring of 1983.)

如果我停下来站一会儿，一大群人就会过来围观我。有好几次围观人群甚至堵塞了交通，交警吹着口哨跑来跑去疏散交通。1983年春天，又来了一位外籍教师。

I left the college in 1983 under somewhat of a cloud, after considerable drama. Apparently nobody minds this 36 years on. If anything, it seems only to enhance my celebrity appeal.

1983年，在经历了相当多的波折后，我带着些许郁闷的心情离开了学校。不过36年过去了，已经没有人会在意了。就算有什么影响，那也是提高了我的知名度。

Now the president of the university and two of his deputies honor us with a meeting and present us with gifts. I make a short speech in my awful Chinese. They treat us to an excellent Chinese lunch.

校长和两位副校长为我们举行了见面会，并向我们赠送了礼物。我用蹩脚的中文做了简短的演讲。他们请我们吃了顿丰盛的中国大餐。

Geoffrey told us beforehand that much of the university’s rapid expansion has been accomplished just the past few years by this president, whose name is Yang Jinghai. Over lunch we ask President Yang how he raised the necessary funds. “By working my contacts nonstop,” he replied with disarming frankness. So I guess being a college president is much the same anywhere.

杰弗里事先已经告诉我们，这所大学现在能扩张到这么大规模，很大部分上都是杨景海校长过去几年完成的。吃饭的时候，我们问杨校长如何筹措到必要的资金。“一直不停地联络”杨校长回答的很坦率。我想其他地方的大学校长也差不多吧。

[Added later. Talking with Geoffrey and his colleagues, I came away much impressed with President Yang. He is handsome and dapper, quietly courteous, well into his fifties but looks twenty years younger. Everyone spoke well of him. “He gets things done and he treats people fairly,” we were told—the defining characteristics of a good boss, in China or any other country, in the 21st or any other century, in college administration or any other kind of management.]

【后加的。和杰弗里以及他的同事聊过后，我对杨校长的印象更深刻了。他英俊潇洒、精明干练、彬彬有礼，五十多岁了，看上去好像年轻了二十岁。大家对他评价挺高。“他是个干事的人，而且待人比较，”大家告诉我们，无论是中国还是外国，无论是21世纪还是其他什么时候，无论是大学管理还是其他行业，杨校长就是好老板的典型】

After lunch we take a tour of the university, trying without much success to locate what we are seeing in our mental memory-maps of the place 36 years ago. My old office is still there at least, now occupied by a Japanese lady instructor. So is the room they fixed up for me in a student dorm building, now used for storage.

吃完饭，我们参观了学校，试图找出我们脑海里36年前的地方，不过大部分地方已经面目全非了。还好我原来的办公室还在，现在里面是一位日本女教师。当时学校在学生宿舍为我准备的房间现在也成了储藏室了。

The years, the memories, the drama … It’s all a bit much. When Geoffrey suggests leaving the college to go check out the town, I eagerly agree.

那些年，那些回忆，过去的种种……太多太多了。杰弗里建议我们去城里看看，我欣然同意。

A town transformed

城市变形记

They took a few weeks to fix up that room in the student dorm for me back in 1982. Until it was ready, I lived in the town’s one hotel, on Hospitality Street next to the police station. Hotel to college was two miles; they brought me back and forth by car.

1982年，他们花了几个星期的时间才把学生宿舍的房间收拾好。在那之前，我一直住在城里的一家旅馆，就在招待所街，紧挨着警察局。从旅馆到大学大概有两英里的距离；学校都派车接送我。

I occupied my non-working hours just walking around the town, getting a feel for the place and practicing my Chinese on the hapless townsfolk. I soon new Siping well enough to work up a decent map. I have printed off a copy of the map and brought it with me, to compare the town I knew in 1982-3 with the one I find in 2019.

不用上班的时候，我就在城市四处闲逛，感受了一下这个地方，并在那些倒霉的城里人身上练习汉语。我很快就把四平的情况弄清楚了，我自己绘出了一幅像样的地图。我打印了一份当时绘的地图，带在身边，把我1982到1983年认识的四平和2019年的四平做比较。

As with the college, the transformation is dramatic. Old Siping, east of the railroad tracks, was a chancrous slum of one-story workers’ hovels back then; now that’s all gone, replaced by decent-looking high-rise apartment blocks. The railroad station is state-of-the-art, totally unrecognizable.

和四平学院一样，四平市的变化也非常巨大。铁路东侧的老四平，曾经是贫民窟，工人居住在一层的小平房里；现在全都没有了，取而代之的是更漂亮的高层公寓楼。老火车站已经无法辨认了，现在是现代化的火车站。

The town itself has spread over what back then were open fields. The hotel is still in place, but the police station next to it has been moved elsewhere.

城镇当时散布在开阔的田野上。旅馆还在，但是隔壁的公安局已搬到别处去了。

South Lake Park is also still there, much improved, with carefully-tended flower-beds, neat lawns, and plenty of seating. This Thursday afternoon it’s full of old people. So is what used to be Children’s Park, across from the hotel—it’s now named something else.

南湖公园还在，公园设施好了很多，精心照料的花坛、整齐的草坪和大量座位。现在正是星期四，下午公园到处都是老人。旅馆对面曾经是儿童公园，现在也改名了。
原创翻译：龙腾网 http://www.ltaaa.cn 转载请注明出处


The oldsters are having fun: one group ballroom dancing, another chorus singing, games of cards and Chinese chess going on, each surrounded by spectators. Everyone seems to be enjoying themselves. Chinese people really know how to retire.

老人们玩得很开心：有的在跳交谊舞，有的在一起唱歌，还有打牌和下象棋的，每群人都围着很多观众。好像每个人都玩得很开心。中国人真会享受退休生活。

The dirty, poor, squalid Siping of 36 years ago has gone, and it’s hard to feel nostalgia for it. I could never love the Chinese Communist Party—too many cruelties, too many lies—but at least they have let this happen.

36年前那个脏乱差穷的四平已经一去不复返了，那样的城市很难让人怀念。我永远都不会爱XX——但不管怎么说，他们确实改变了这座城市。

The townsfolk do not stop and stare as I go by. I do not cause any traffic jams. A foreigner is no longer a curiosity. Siping has been globalized.

我从旁边经过的时候，城里的人已经不会再停下来盯着我看了。更不会造成任何交通堵塞。外国人已经不稀罕了。四平已经全球化了。
原创翻译：龙腾网 http://www.ltaaa.cn 转载请注明出处


Demography

人口统计学

That what I remember as Children’s Park is now full of geezers is a reminder that China is now well and truly through the Demographic Transition to low mortality and low fertility, as described by demographer Paul Morland in his book The Human Tide, which I was reading before we left. From Chapter 8:

我记忆里的儿童公园，现在里面全是怪老头，这提醒了我，中国现在经过了人口转型，过渡到低死亡率和低生育率国家，人口学家保罗·莫兰在他的著作《人口浪潮》里面曾经提到，我来中国之前还在读。第八章:

China is ageing quickly, as would be expected from its falling fertility rates and lengthening life expectancy. The median Chinese citizen remained in his/her twenties throughout the first forty years or so of the People’s Republic, but in the first fifteen years of the twenty-first century the median age has risen by seven years. This is nearly three times the speed of ageing experienced in the UK and the US, and the trend will continue … Those aged over sixty as a share of the population will pass the share in the United States in around 2030.

中国正在迅速老龄化。就像我们从其下降的生育率和延长的预期寿命中所能预期的那样。中国人的年龄中位数在20世纪中期的40年中都保持在20多岁，但在21世纪的头15年中，其年龄中位数增加了7岁。这几乎是英国和美国老龄化速度的3倍，并且这种趋势还将持续。……中国60岁以上人口占比会在2030年左右超过美国。

The U.N. gives China’s total fertility rate (TFR) as 1.5, but Morland thinks 1.2 is likelier. China, like most other developed countries, is heading over the demographic cliff.

联合国的数据现实：中国总生育率是1.5，但莫兰认为更有可能是1.2。与大多数其他发达国家一样，中国也正在步入老人化。

The world’s top ten TFRs: Niger (6.35), Angola (6.09), Burundi (5.93), Chad (5.90), Mali (5.90), Somalia (5.70), Uganda (5.62), Zambia (5.58), Malawi (5.43), South Sudan (5.34).

全球总生育率前十：尼日尔(6.35)、安哥拉(6.09)、布隆迪(5.93)、乍得(5.90)、马里(5.90)、索马里(5.70)、乌干达(5.62)、赞比亚(5.58)、马拉维(5.43)、南苏丹(5.34)。

I’ve said it before and I’ll say it again: It’s not economics that’s the dismal science, it’s demography.

我之前说过，我再说一遍：经济学不是一门悲观的科学，人口学才是。

Low-speed rail travel

普快列车旅行

Back to Peking on the night sleeper. This is not a gaotie but a locomotive of the older type. The toilet bowl of our carriage seems not to have been cleaned since Liberation. Not everything in China has been modernized.

我们晚上坐卧铺回北京。这次不是高铁，而是老式动力火车。我们那节车厢的抽水马桶好像从解放后就没刷过。中国并不是所有东西都现代化了。

The male of our companion couple (sleeper compartments have four beds) is a heroic snorer.

我们的男性旅伴(卧铺车厢有四张床)真是鼾声如雷。

Friday, September 13th: Peking.

9月13日，星期五：北京。

Doing the sights

游览北京

Friday we spend sightseeing with Uncle and Aunt. Uncle wanted to check out the preparations in Tiananmen Square for the coming guoqing, the celebration of National Day. We can’t get close though, and can’t see much. It doesn’t help that this is a public holiday, the Mid-Autumn Festival, the streets more crowded than usual.

周五我们和老姨、姨夫一起游览北京。姨夫想看看天安门广场为即将到来的国庆庆典做的准备工作。但我们无法靠近，也看不见什么东西。更糟糕的是，当天是中国的公共假日——中秋节，街上比平时拥挤多了。

We head off to the nearby National Centre for the Performing Arts, a sort of Chinese Lincoln Center but with the British spelling. Curious architecture; impressive programs featuring international stars of music, opera, dance; not crowded.

我们离开天安门广场，前往附近的国家大剧院(National Centre for the Performing Arts)，这里有点像林肯中心，只不过名字用的是英式拼写。建筑比较古怪；国际音乐明星的节目、歌剧、舞蹈令人印象深刻，而且人也不多。

QR-Code Nation

二维码国家

A QR code is one of those squares you see sometimes at points of sale, packed with teenier black and white squares in random-looking patterns.

二维码就是你在买东西的地方看到的那些正方形，上面布满了随机排列的黑白小方块。


I have never used a QR code. My only engagement with these beasties came when, a few months ago, Coinbase started asking for one when I tried to log in to my Bitcoin account. Clueless, I called in my tech-savvy son, who did something that fixed it.

我从来没用过二维码。我第一次遇到二维码是几个月前，当我试图登录比特币账户时，交易所要求提供二维码。弄得我一头雾水，我把精通技术的儿子叫来，他捯饬了一会就弄好了。

In China QR codes are everywhere, and have pretty much taken over from cash. You pay the taxi with a QR code. (Scanned from your smartphone, of course. You don’t have a smartphone? Say WHAT?) You buy a cup of coffee with a QR code. To raise the entry barrier to some secure compound, you lean out of your car window and show your QR code to a security camera.

在中国，二维码无处不在，并且已经完全取代了现金。坐出租车要用二维码支付。(当然是从智能手机上扫描的。没有智能手机?你说什么?)，还可以用二维码买咖啡。进入安全的小区，你要想把抬起小区的横杆，就要将身体探出车窗，向安全摄像头出示二维码。

The joke we heard was that beggars in China don’t bother asking for cash. They just get a T-shirt printed up with a QR code on it and let you scan. I’m not sure it’s a joke.

我们听到一个笑话，在中国，乞丐不用费力去讨钱。只要把二维码印在T恤上就可以了。我觉得这不算笑话。

From a libertarian point of view, this is a horrible development. Cash may be grubby and primitive, but it’s anonymous. When every exchange is by QR code, your every tiny transaction ends up recorded for ever on a humongous database somewhere. With modern data-mining techniques, your entire life is open for inspection by the owners of the databases … which in China of course means the ChiCom secret police.

以自由主义者的观点来看，这种发展趋势很可怕。现金可能不干净、原始，但现金是匿名的。如果每次交易都通过二维码进行，那每笔小交易都会被永远记录在某个庞大的数据库中。随着现代数据挖掘技术的发展，那就意味对于数据库的所有者来说，你的整个生活都是透明的，当然在中国指的就是那些秘密技术员。
原创翻译：龙腾网 http://www.ltaaa.cn 转载请注明出处


Shall we of the West trade in our ancient liberties for mere consumer convenience? My guess is, we shall, but I hate the thought.

难道我们西方人能仅仅为了方便消费者，就拿我们古老的自由去交易吗?我想我们会的，但我讨厌这种想法。
原创翻译：龙腾网 http://www.ltaaa.cn 转载请注明出处


Transport ageism

公共运输中的老年人偏见

We’ve been noticing that when we take a bus, it seems to be full of geezers; but the subways are all young people. Uncle explains.

坐公交车的时候，我们发现坐公交车的全是老人，而坐地铁的全是年轻人。

We retirees travel for free on the buses, but we have to pay for subway tickets. So of course we take the bus. The kids take the subway.

姨夫告诉我们，我们退休人员坐公交车是免费的，不过地铁票得花钱。所以我们当然选择坐公交车。地铁就让孩子们去坐吧。

In the States there’d be an -ism there somewhere, with protest marches, support groups, and tear-jerky victim stories. In Peking no-one seems much bothered.

美国到处都是各种主义、抗议游行、支持团体、催人泪下的受害者故事。北京似乎没有这种烦恼。

Saturday, September 14th: Peking.

9月14日，周六：北京。

Breakfast treats

早餐食物

One of my subversive pleasures in China is spotting really bad Chinglish in translated signs and notices.

我在中国的破坏性乐趣是在英文标识和告示中发现很糟糕的中式英语。

At breakfast this morning I netted my first butterfly this trip. The hotel’s breakfast buffet includes a table with various kinds of rolls and buns, each with a helpful label in Chinese and Chinglish identifying the ingredients. One bears the Chinese name with, under it, the helpful legend Intestinal bag.

今天吃早饭的时候，第一次碰到了这种情况。酒店的自助早餐包括各式各样的面包卷和果子面包，每一种早点旁边都用中文和中式英语标签标明了食材。其中一个上面写着中文名，下面写着肠袋（Intestinal bag）。
原创翻译：龙腾网 http://www.ltaaa.cn 转载请注明出处


Fair makes your mouth water, doesn’t it?

确实让你口水直流，不是吗?

(I’m not sure this counts as true Chinglish: The Chinese changzai bao really does mean “intestinal bag.”)

(我不确定这算不算真正的中式英语:中文的肠仔包真的是“肠袋”的意思。)

The Summer Palace

圆明园

More sightseeing with uncle and aunt, today to the ruins of the Old Summer Palace, in a big park northeast of the main city. This was a preserve of the imperial family, looted and burned by British and French troops during the Second Opium War (1860).

今天和老姨和姨夫游览了更多地方，还去了圆明园遗址，这座大型公园坐落于北京东北方向。这里曾经是皇家花园，在第二次鸦片战争(1860年)期间被英法联军洗劫并烧毁。
原创翻译：龙腾网 http://www.ltaaa.cn 转载请注明出处


Rosie and I engage in our customary banter at the ruins.

罗西和我在废墟旁边习惯性地开玩笑。

She: “See what you barbarians did to our beautiful palace!”

罗西:“看看你们这些野蛮人对我们美丽的宫殿做了什么!”

Me: “As Lord Elgin said: ‘To punish the court while sparing the common people.’ A Chinese general would have burned Peking and massacred the population.”

我:“就像埃尔金伯爵说的那样:‘在不伤害老百姓的前提下惩罚朝廷。’……

I then started reciting “The Private of the Buffs,” but Rosie just rolled eyes and walked away. No harm, no foul: after 33 years of marriage you’ve sorted out all this stuff long since.

然后我开始背诵《霸夫兵团二等兵》(The Private of The Buffs)，罗西翻着白眼走开了。没有伤害，就没有犯规。如果结婚33年，你也会解决这些问题。
注：后附《霸夫兵团二等兵》全文。第二次鸦片战争期间当时有一个英国的霸夫步兵团（the Buffs），其中一名二等兵约翰·莫耶斯（John Moyes），这个最低等士兵和一些随军的锡克人在护送酒时被僧格林沁俘虏，同样也让他们磕头，锡克人因磕头免于一死，但英国的二等兵拒不磕头最终被斩首。

Sunday, September 15th: Peking.

9月15日，星期天:北京。
原创翻译：龙腾网 http://www.ltaaa.cn 转载请注明出处


At the White Stupa

北海白塔


Still more sightseeing, today to Beihai Park just north of the Forbidden City. This is the park with the huge white stupa on an island in a lake.

继续游览北京，今天去紫禁城北面的北海公园。这座公园的湖中小岛是有一座巨大的白塔。

The park is officially closed to the public as part of the lockdown leading up to National Day, but Uncle has found a work-around somehow, as you generally can in China (and as several hundred other people apparently also have).

因为国庆即将到来，这里也被禁止进入，公园正式对公众关闭，但姨夫不知想了个什么变通的办法，我们还是进入了公园，在中国你经常能遇到这种情况。显然公园里的其他几百人也同样做到了。

Climbing up to the base of the stupa and reading the historical plaque there, I learn that the thing was badly damaged by the dreadful 1976 Tangshan earthquake. I didn’t know that. Ten percent of Peking’s buildings were damaged, says Wikipedia, and fifty people died. Given that Peking is ninety miles from Tangshan—which was utterly wiped out with hundreds of thousands dead—that was some heck of an earthquake.

我爬到佛塔底部，阅读历史介绍板上的文字，得知这座塔在1976年唐山大地震中严重受损。我不知道唐山大地震。维基百科称，北京离唐山只有90英里，唐山大地震时，北京10%的建筑被毁。而唐山则被夷为平地，这真是场可怕的地震。

(It was also, ahem, a key plot point in Fire from the Sun, Chapter 19.)

(咳，这也是《太阳的火焰》第19章中的关键情节。)

Bilingual China

双语中国
原创翻译：龙腾网 http://www.ltaaa.cn 转载请注明出处


Even outside historical sites and breakfast buffets, Peking is a bilingual city. Every PA system, in the subway for example, addresses you first in Chinese, then in English. Most public signs are in both languages. I don’t know whether phone services ask you to press two for Chinese, never having had occasion to call one that might, but I wouldn’t be surprised.

不光是历史古迹和自助早餐，北京就是个双语城市。广播系统，比如地铁广播系统，都会先用中文播报，然后再用英文播报。大部分公共标志都是双语的。我不知道电话服务是否要求按2选择中文服务，也许有吧。不过我没有机会打电话。如果有我也不会感到惊讶。

You’d think that hearing all that English would acquaint Peking people with the language, but it’s rare to meet anyone with decent English—much rarer than in Moscow, where there is generally a fluent English-speaker within earshot.

你可能会想，听了这么多英语，北京人对英语肯定很熟悉了，但很少有人能说一口像样的英语——比在莫斯科要少得多，莫斯科通常能听到有人说一口流利英语。

Perhaps our languages are just too different. Linguists point out that when Europeans first needed words for particularly Chinese things, they tended to reach to other languages, not to Chinese, as if the sounds of the one language just don’t “stick” in the mind for speakers of the other.

也许是汉语和英语差异太大了。语言学家指出，当欧洲人需要用专门词汇来表示中国事物时，倾向于借用其他语言，而不是汉语，就好像一种语言的发音就是无法“粘”在说另一种语言的人的脑海里。

So the “paddy” in “paddy field” is from Malay; “rickshaw” from Japanese (which is phonetically quite different from Chinese); “Mandarin,” the very name of the language, is from Hindi. So is “coolie,” though it sounds like Chinese kuli, “hard labor.”

所以paddy field（稻田）中的paddy来自马来语；rickshaw（黄包车）来自日语(在发音上与汉语完全不一样);Mandarin（普通话），这个汉语的名字，来自印地语。Coolie（苦力）虽然听起来很像汉语的苦力，可是这个词语也是来自印地语。
原创翻译：龙腾网 http://www.ltaaa.cn 转载请注明出处


It seems at any rate that on the cosmopolitan/communitarian issue the Chinese are aiming for a point of balance more sensible than ours: to globalize somewhat by accommodating foreigners and their main language, while maintaining secure borders, traditional folk arts, and ethnic stability in their own homeland.

无论如何，在世界主义，在一些问题上，中国人打算寻找一个比我们更明智的平衡点：通过接纳外国人和他们的主要语言，在一定程度上实现全球化，同时保持安全的边界、保护传统民间艺术和实现国家民族稳定。

A night at the Peking opera

晚上看京剧

Traditional folk arts, yes. Our hotel puts on a Peking opera show at weekends. To close out the Peking segment of our trip, I thought we should go see the Sunday performance as a tribute to the city’s very own art form.

京剧是传统民间艺术。我们居住的酒店周末上演京剧。为了给这次北京之旅来个完美的结局，我想我们应该去看周日的演出，以此向这座城市特有的艺术形式致敬。

Not everybody is so charitable. Travel writer Jan Morris, at the end of one of her pieces about China, exulted that she had gotten through the entire assigment without having to sit through any Chinese opera. I actually like the stuff in moderate doses, and wish I knew more about it.

不是所有人都这么慷慨。旅行作家简·莫里斯在她一篇关于中国的文章的结尾欣喜地写道，幸亏她不用耐着性子看完中国歌剧，就完成任务。事实上，我喜欢适量的东西，也希望能更了解京剧。

Tonight’s two sextions are “Beat Jiao Zan,” in which a clever young woman out-fights a seasoned general, and “Farewell My Concubine,” inspiration for an award-winning 1993 movie.

今天晚上的两场戏都是《打焦赞》，讲的是一位聪明的年轻女子打败一位身经百战的老将军。这场戏是1993年获奖影片《霸王别姬》的灵感来源。

The first was mainly acrobatic, not very musical; the second would not have disgraced Puccini for musical-dramatic effect, if he had been Chinese. (Perhaps he was, in a previous life. He actually used some themes from Chinese folk music in Turandot.)

开场时杂技表演，跟音乐关系不大；如果普契尼是中国人，第二场在音乐戏剧效果方面不会让他蒙羞。也许他前世是中国人。实际上，他在《图兰朵》中使用了一些中国民间音乐。

I think we have paid full and proper respect to the nation’s capital. Tomorrow to Suzhou.

我认为我们对这个国家的首都给予了完全和特有的尊重。明天去苏州。